Made in China

Kershaw Chill Review

If there’s a gripe I have with Kershaw as a whole, it’s that there are simply a lot of products in the company’s lineup to keep track of. Over the last decade or so I’ve paid attention to their catalog, I’d argue half of Kershaw’s offerings are similar to the point of being completely undifferentiated.

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A few examples: is there some particular feature on the Camshaft that sets it apart from the extremely-similar Airlock? Does the Concierge do something that the Atmos doesn’t? Do we need eleven different Emerson CQC models? Why not name the Bareknuckle the Natrix XL and avoid confusion? I could go on.

Beyond simply fatiguing would-be customers, Kershaw’s ceaseless glut of new products seems to require that older models be culled to make room for the new—apparently, even immensely popular designs aren’t safe from getting the ax. To point fingers, I know more than a few people who loved the Kershaw Skyline only to watch it vanish from the company’s catalog. (Seriously, what gives?)

At first blush, the Chill seems to be another knife that sticks to the Kershaw playbook: stainless blade, black G10 scales, 8Cr steel, and a sub-$30 price. I mean, the company definitely has a “type.” One would be forgiven for taking a sidelong glance at the Chill and electing not to give a hoot one way or another. However, after giving this one its day in court, I’m finding it a capable companion to my beloved Skyline.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The Kershaw Chill mates a 3 and 1/8” blade to a sub 4” handle. Not counting the pocket clip, the width is a scant 3/8” at its widest point, and it clocks in at only 2.3 ounces on my scale. That’s far from cumbersome. Here it is nestled between two of the most ubiquitous EDC knives on the planet: the Spyderco PM2 and the Ontario Rat II.

Kershaw Chill Size Comparison with Para 2 and Ontario Rat II

I’ve read it in more than one place that the Chill feels like a glorified steak knife. That did get a giggle out of me. It is certainly a slender blade, and in deference to the design’s haters, this would be a very poor choice for splitting cords of wood, hacking through dense brush, or trying to process an entire Elk. It is decidedly a small knife and therefore should be relegated to doing small knife things.

What causes me to tip my cap to the Chill, first and foremost, is a supremely excellent ratio of weight to blade length. I have a lot of knives in the drawer, but the Chill seems to stand alone when it comes to giving me what feels like the longest usable blade in the smallest overall package.

Additionally, I really like the blade design. The drop point comes to a sharp tip that easily pokes through a variety of material, there’s adequate belly for cutting, and the 3”+ length allows for some good penetration depth. Also, the Chill is hollow-ground, making it a little more slicey than your average flat-ground EDC.

Kershaw Chill Blade

Granted, with the 8Cr13MoV steel and choice of grind, the Chill becomes something of a glass cannon in that it can be a very high-performance cutter, but it’s going to have a relatively fragile edge that requires touching up. The silver lining to the lack of edge retention on 8Cr steels is that they’re pretty easy to sharpen. About four minutes on a Work Sharp Angle Set system gets this back to hair-shaving levels of sharpness, even for a novice like myself.

Handle, Ergonomics, and Pocket Clip

As I mentioned before, the Kershaw Chill is in many ways prototypical of the company’s black G10 + stainless aesthetic. However, the fit and finish of this knife as a whole bats well above a sub-$25 price point.

First, the G10 is grippy without being too abrasive on the hands or pockets, and the scales are very nicely centered to the frame. The pocket clip in both tip-up and tip-down carry configurations nicely settles into the hand, and every possible sharp corner on the knife has been dehorned. Even when I really bear down on the Chill, there’s not a hotspot to be found.

I also appreciate the very generous relief for the index finger. This detail, in combination with the finger guard formed by the deployed flipper tab, really allows me to lock in when using the knife forcefully.

Kershaw Chill Liner Lock

I’d mentioned how pokey the blade was before. I feel a lot more comfortable about using the Chill to punch through hard plastics (or even as a last-ditch defensive tool) knowing that it’s that much harder for my fingers to jump the relief and get out in front of the edge. Suffice it to say that the ergos are great for a small knife.

The only real knock in this department is the pocket clip, pictured below with the Chill in its natural habitat.

Kershaw Chill in the Pocket

I appreciate that it stays out of the way during use, but like a lot of clips it’s monstrously oversprung. You’ll also note that it’s far from deep carry, leaving at least 3/4” of knife peeking out of the pocket. Thankfully, the design is pretty non-threatening, so it’s unlikely to draw stares and most may simply mistake the matte stainless and black G10 for a pen if they’re not looking carefully.

Deployment and Lockup

A mixed bag here. I suppose we’ll start with the worst first: the detent is weak. While the blade definitely has a bias towards closure, even a light amount of pressure on the flipper tab will kick the blade out into a 70-degree, “not even close” level of deployment.

I’ll state for the record that I absolutely hate overly-stiff detents (Kizer: I’m looking at you). However, the Chill comes to it from the other extreme. If you want 100% reliable deployment, it’s going to require a decisive push on the flipper tab and/or a wrist flick. There’s a learning curve here for sure, but not one that’s insurmountable.

Kershaw Chill Half Open

Additionally, there’s a little bit of side-to-side blade play. I’d estimate there’s maybe a couple degrees worth of wiggle if you’re applying a little bit of force to the deployed spine, but to me it’s not a dealbreaker, and especially not at the price point.

Now for the good: first, the blade is nicely centered, and the liner lock easily finds the midpoint of the blade’s bearing surface. Despite the thinness of the liner and the overall weight of the knife, the engagement of the lock is extremely positive.

Kershaw Chill Liners

Additionally, the action is extremely smooth. This is a little unexpected given that my knife is running on phosphor-bronze washers rather than any kind of ball bearing system, but from opening all the way through full deployment there is no grit or roughness in the travel. With a little bit of knife oil, the blade locks up with an authoritative and very satisfying click.

Kershaw Chill Review – Final Thoughts

I mean, I get it: you might be the kind of guy who carries M390 steel or nothing. You might only own Sebenzas and Striders. I’ll grant that the Kershaw Chill is going to be unlikely to impress if compared to knives that are more than fifteen times its cost.

But let’s really simmer in this fact alone: the Chill gives you a whole lot of functionality for the cost of a large pizza and a six pack. It’s a nice “first” knife that doesn’t break the bank and can fulfill a wide variety of “regular folk” type uses, it’s slicey, and the R.J. Martin design is well considered. “Glass half full” types will find a lot to dig and will be more able to contextualize the Chill’s faults as concessions made to keep costs reasonable.

As such, the name of the knife is fitting. Guys who can chill a little in terms of their expectations will find this to be a valid addition to their small-knife EDC rotation, and I’m totally that guy. I own better, but I just couldn’t give this design the cold shoulder.

Kershaw Chill (3410), Folding Everyday Carry Pocket Knife with 3.1 In. High-Performance 8Cr13MoV Stainless Steel Blade with Bead-Blasted Finish and Black G-10 Handle Scales, 2 oz

Editor: I recommend purchasing the Kershaw Chill at BladeHQ or Amazon. Thank you for reading.

Ruike P801 Review

by Clayton Walker Leave a Comment

The vice president under Woodrow Wilson, a man named Thomas Marshall, once said that “What this country really needs is a good five-cent cigar.” Even when the world is going to hell in a handbasket, there’s reassurance to be had in getting a great bargain.

Admittedly, today’s consumers are spoiled for choice when it comes to budget knives—the world is yours for under fifty bucks. Spending more may get you better steel, higher build quality, and more thoughtful design, but I would reason that 98% of people will have their EDC needs met by something as ubiquitous as a CRKT M-16.

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Fortunately, the knife world has been anything but a race to the bottom over the last fifteen years where build quality and value are concerned. If anything, the eye-popping amount of competition within the “budget” category over this stretch of time has continually put better and better products in front of consumers without exceeding that $30 to $50 threshold.

Enter the Ruike P801. Does the world need another budget-category knife? Well, when it punches above its weight to this degree and coming in at the low end of what we’re calling “budget” these days, I’d argue we do.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The Ruike P801 is a good “medium” knife. With a closed length of about 4 and a half inches and a blade length of 3.4 inches, the P801 gives you approximately the same cutting length as something like Spyderco’s famous Paramilitary 2 with what feels like an inch less of handle. The P801 is also deceptively thin, allowing it to disappear into a pocket or sit flat against the palm of the hand quite easily. I love how svelte this knife is without sacrificing length or usability.

The primary drawback is weight. The Ruike P801 is all stainless steel and clocks in at 4.23 ounces. So despite being about 30% thinner than the Paramilitary 2 and less bulky, it weighs about a half-ounce more. You will be aware that you have it on you.

Ruike P801 Paramiliary 2 Thickness Comparison

Onto the blade, which I think is outstanding. The P801 is a fairly conventional flat-ground, drop point style, but there are two major pluses. The first is that it’s made from 14C28N steel. I wish this were a more common option among knives. In my experience, it takes an edge just as easy as 8Cr13MoV or AUS-8, but tends to hold that edge for longer. I’d say it’s about as good as D2, but a little more user-friendly.

Ruike P801 Frame Lock

Impressively sharp from the factory, and aided by a spine that’s a little thicker than you typically get in a medium EDC type knife, the Ruike P801 is an excellent slicer. It will make confetti of whatever paper you have lying around on your desk and has a nice amount of belly that allows it to easily bite into most material on light pull cuts. It outperforms knives in my collection costing more than three times what Ruike is asking.

Ruike P801 Size Comparison with Ontario RAT and Para 2

It might also be a small thing, but the blade doesn’t announce that it’s made in China. I mean, the knife is Chinese made (what isn’t these days at this price point?) but I’m glad that it’s not being shouted from the proverbial rooftops. Instead, we get some goofy, overly long “serial numbers” that identify this particular knife as WBVEZU00237—as if P801 wasn’t nondescript or specific enough—but it’s a relatively benign design element.

Handle, Ergonomics, and Pocket Clip

As mentioned before, the Ruike P801 is a flat knife at only about a third of an inch thick, not counting the clip. However, it is a thoughtful, well-considered kind of flat that hugs the contours of the hand without ever being uncomfortable or overly aggressive.

The knife has to be felt to be appreciated. I particularly liked how the rear of the handle angles away and appreciated the jimping on the rear spine. Together with the generous index finger relief (and assisted by the flipper shape), you get a knife that settles really well into the hand for serious work, whether that’s for forceful cutting or for possible self-defense use.

These features are all the more appreciated given the flat, untextured stainless steel of the handle. One might think that a knife like this would be unduly slippery in the hand. Quite honestly, the ergos allow a remarkably stable grip with only the thumb rested on the jimping and the index finger curled beneath the flipper tab. This thing isn’t going anywhere.

One design element done absolutely right is that all of the sharp edges have been knocked down (“Dehorned,” as those of us from the gun world might describe). Every corner on the frame of the knife is subtly radiused so it won’t chew up your hands or the liners of your pockets. This also creates a really cool “edge worn” look where the flats are a solid color, but the stainless pokes through just a little on every edge to outline the contours of the knife.

As for the pocket clip itself, Ruike has done a good job of designing a clip that isn’t horrifically oversprung (a perennial pet peeve of mine), but is grippy enough to stay put. The clip is also deep carry and matte black, which further reduces visibility. Or at least it is on my blackwashed version; the other P801 has bright blue anodization. Which is cool, but uh, will draw the eye and eliminate the benefit a deep carry clip is intended to provide. The clip can’t be repositioned, but the right hand, tip up orientation should work well for most.

Ruike P801 in the Pocket

One definite knock on the subject of clips: given how flat the knife is, the pocket clip expands the width of the knife by a good 40% at its highest point. To me, this creates an inevitable hot spot at the bottom palm of my hand if gripped naturally and tightly. I can appreciate the design of the clip, but I backed out two T6 screws and didn’t have to worry about the hot spot any more. And hey, if I lose it, I’m out thirty bucks.

Deployment and Lockup

Another home run here for the Ruike P801. The pivot is ball bearing-based, which again is unexpectedly pleasant for the price point, and the detent is dead on. It’s nearly impossible to mis-deploy this knife, and any degree of purposeful downward force put on the flipper tab will cause the blade to kick out into full deployment. This is once again the kind of action that makes one wonder why assisted-opening flippers are even a thing. You can hold your wrist as stiff as a board and deploy the Ruike P801 from any angle. It’s idiot proof.

And kudos again to Ruike for the design of the P801 flipper tab. Overly rounded tabs or those with shallow engagement angles always get my goat, since they usually work against the goal of aggressively building up enough force with the index finger to kick out the blade. Maybe it’s to protect our sensitive digits?

Here on the P801, we get to have our cake and eat it, too. The flipper has a right angle shelf that gives good purchase, but again those rounded edges aren’t going to abrade your index finger when it engages the flipper or hits the top of the frame. A-plus work here.

Ruike P801 Flipper Tab

Lock-wise, the P801 is solid. About 75% of the frame lock mates with about 60% of the bottom of the blade, giving an engagement surface that’s significantly thicker and hardier than what you’d find in a liner lock system. And once again, consider you’re also getting a frame lock design at a $30 price point.

Ruike P801 Lock Up

Some have commented that the P801 has a clear Achilles heel: blade centering. Admittedly, mine is not perfect, but unless you go looking for it this is hard to notice. On deployment, my blade might be about two to three degrees off the center line of the frame. This may bug you to no end, but if I have to close one eye and squint to notice it, it’s a non-issue, and all the more so given the lack of blade play.

Ruike P801 Review – Final thoughts

Onto the elephant in the room: some will see the $30 price and note this is a Chinese knife and be instantly deterred. I mean, the Spyderco Tenacious is Chinese made, as is just about every Kershaw and CRKT, but some might feel some sense of loyalty in that at least Spyderco, CRKT, or Kershaw are American companies that vouch for their production processes and product.

So here comes this company called Ruike that nobody’s ever heard of, and you’re supposed to call it “Rake” (and damned if I will; to me this sounds out as “ryke” if we’re being generous), and it certainly sounds like some kind of fly-by-night operation that will take your money and never be heard from again if something goes wrong. I absolutely get that.

As it turns out, Ruike is the knifemaking wing of the same company that makes the generally well-regarded Fenix brand of flashlights. They’re basically taking the same blend of quality and ruggedness that made them a trusted name among gear junkies and translating that into blades. That’s a fairly decent pedigree from a knife company I’d never heard of before.

Consider this: for literally double the cost of a typical “gas station” knife, you’re getting not just an entry-level steel, but a step up to 14C28N, all stainless steel construction, a frame lock, a ball bearing pivot, a deep carry clip, and a stupid-proof flipper action with great ergos and well-considered dimensions. This is basically a knife nerd’s wish list for a sub-$70 knife, but at half that price. It’s screaming good value.

At $30 to $35, I expected to say “yeah, it’s decent, I guess,” but instead found the Ruike P801 making its way into my pocket more and more alongside a rotation of Benchmades and Spydercos. There’s a chance you might not love this, but if internet buzz is to believed (along with my own thoughts here), this is a low-risk, high-reward proposition if there ever was one.

Ruike Pocket Knife for men Tactical Folding Knives Small Frame Lock 14C28N Stainless Cool Steel Camping Knives with Pocket Clip Hunting Hiking Word EDC Knife Outdoor Gear Tool Women Gifts P801

Well made and a good edge and all blade be Stoned Wash Sanding: Versatile 4.49 In; 420 stainless steel ; blade made with 14C28N Sandwich Steel (58~60HRC), one of the highest performing knife steels in the world, for increased hardness, corrosion resistance and edge retention, so please kindly careful
Safe, Durable and Reliable: Frame lock gives the knife a slim sleek style while holding the blade open during use, and the locking mechanism is very secure. It has little to no play in the blade when locked.
Simple pocket Clip carry and tactical engagement with strong or weak hand: The portable belt clip is very substantial enough and it is long enough, and you don’t need worry about the knife has fallen out yet
Light weight for the size: Open: 200mm/7.87”; closed: 114mm/4.49”; Blade: Length:88mm/3.46”, thickness: 3.1mm / 0.12”; weight: 120g/4.23oz
100% MONEY BACK GUARANTEE and THE EDC Utility Pocket knife with clip, lanyard compatibility, are PERFECT for Men women daily carry , This is a perfect gift to be as a folding tactical pocket knifes for men women girls child kids.

Editor: I recommend purchasing the Ruike P801 at BladeHQ or Amazon. Thank you for reading.

Gerber Jukebox Review

by Clayton Walker Leave a Comment

If you hadn’t heard: the war between form and function continues to rage. Sure, in a perfect world we’d end up with tools that look fantastic and work great. That said, the reality of the knife world is that most of us end up with pug-ugly blades we don’t mind hammering on, and a lot of drawer queens that we feel wrong about putting to hard use.

Buy the Gerber Jukebox at BladeHQ
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The Gerber Jukebox has oddly fallen right into the middle of that continuum for me. Like most of the knife’s buyers, I originally saw the retro-cool looks and unique operation and found I couldn’t say no. However, after getting the piece in hand, I encountered a few clear drawbacks that prevented me from absolutely falling in love with the design.

Now here’s the ironic part of it all: the fact that I didn’t initially love it caused me to beat on the thing and push it a little harder than I would have ordinarily. As a result, it’s one of the few knives I own that’s both a neat showpiece and gets a frequent nod when there’s a job to be done.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The Gerber Jukebox mates a 2.75” blade into a 3 7/8” long handle. Much of the retro appeal comes from a 7/8” broad sheepsfoot blade with a very steep descent between spine and tip. So much so it really resembles a straight razor more than a sheepsfoot. I find this blade shape to be well-suited to most blue collar cutting tasks.

Compared to the usual suspects of the Spyderco PM2 and the Ontario Rat II, the Jukebox is small, but squat. Closed, the knife is a hair under a half-inch thick (not counting the clip) and sits about an inch and a quarter at its widest point. Overall, the knife is weighty without feeling cumbersome at 3.8 ounces on my digital scale.

Now for the negative: the Gerber Jukebox uses a 7Cr17MoV steel. This was a new one on me, and required some Googling: apparently it’s even more budget than the Chinese standard bearer of 8Cr13MoV. Roughly equivalent to 440a, expect it to have slightly less edge retention than 8Cr but be even easier to sharpen. Considering that just about every knife these days from a quality manufacturer has landed on 8Cr as the bare minimum in steel quality, and given the $35 to $40 price point of the Jukebox, this seems an odd choice from Gerber.

What I can forgive less than the steel was the absolutely atrocious factory grind, which was not only dull but completely asymmetrical. One side looks like a flat grind, the other a hollow grind, and there’s a visible difference in terms of where the grinds start from the spine of the blade. At one point I might have accepted this as what one could expect from a “budget” knife, but competition is stiff these days. The sloppiness becomes even less excusable for a company trying to woo the enthusiast market segment.

You’ll notice my knife doesn’t have a perfectly straight edge and has a slightly rounded tip. That’s on me, not Gerber. In putting an edge on the knife, I turned to the Work Sharp company’s WSKTS-W model. Yeah: the electric-powered one. Maybe I was a little too aggressive in my first outing with the device and was a little heavy-handed with the coarse grit belt. Maybe my lack of finesse was an especially bad fit with the softer 7Cr steel. Live and learn. In my defense, it gave the Jukebox a razor-sharp edge for the first time in its life, and as the kids say, you only YOLO once.

Handle, Ergonomics, and Pocket Clip

Undoubtedly the biggest draw of the Gerber Jukebox past the straight-razor aesthetic is the tortoiseshell treatment on the acrylic handles. These are just awesome, and I hope this catches on. A lot of us gravitate to a single cool feature of a knife as reason enough to buy it for a collection, and this was the golden ticket that allowed the Jukebox entry to my shopping cart.

The ergos aren’t too bad when it comes to the Jukebox. It’s very nicely rounded and dehorned, making it virtually hotspot free. The stainless hardware is nicely polished, and the acrylic panels are nicely fitted to the frame. The knife has a satisfying weight in the hand, and the handle is right-sized to permit a four-finger grip without feeling bulky.

One issue made itself known in a way I’m glad didn’t amount to much. I realized that while the Jukebox feels good in the hand, its symmetric nature makes it harder to tell the orientation of the knife if you pick it up in the dark. I was breaking down some boxes at about 10pm when I realized I’d picked the knife up ass-backwards. One would think the flipper tab and pocket clip would’ve served as significant tactile clues as to which way the sharp end is pointing, but somehow I found a way to misorient the knife, so be careful.

The Jukebox’s pocket clip is deep carry in a non-ambidextrous, tip down orientation. Neither should be a dealbreaker: the knife is easily opened and deployed with the left hand, and I don’t think this is built to be opened at speed (more on this in the next section) or designed around a self-defense role. That said, we’d be remiss not to talk about the flipper. Some of the benefits of deep carry are slightly negated by a half-inch metallic protuberance. I didn’t get prodded by the flipper as some other online reviewers have mentioned, but it does make the knife a little conspicuous in the pocket.

Deployment and Lockup

I’m going to upgrade my original assessment of the Jukebox’s deployment from “awkward” to a new verdict of “unexpectedly gratifying.”

First, you might see the upward extension on the blade in the closed position and assume that this is a fidget-friendly front flipper. It is not. The blade is under stiff enough tension that you can’t easily flick this into deployment. Even if you did try to build up momentum with a wrist snap, the way you’d be gripping the knife would mean that you’d probably just end up pinning your index finger between the handle and the extension before the liner had a chance to engage.

If you make peace with the fact that your deployment won’t be instantaneous, you can still have some fun here. The Jukebox does indeed open one-handed quite easily. The thumb can roll the blade out to a ninety degree position, at which point the index finger can hook over the back of the tab and click the blade into lockup. It might not be as fast as most EDC deployment methods, but after a small learning curve the process becomes very smooth. While the action is a little heavy for my liking, it’s free of grit or any hitches.

Lockup is decent if unexceptional. My Jukebox has a little lateral wiggle if I apply a bit of force, but it’s nothing that bugs me. The liner is a little thin, but it consistently finds the middle of the blade even with light pressure. I wouldn’t hammer on it, but this would be fine for light to moderate use.

Gerber Jukebox Review – Final Thoughts

As you might have gathered, the blade steel, action, and ergonomics all add up to a knife that I like, but don’t love. In considering what Gerber’s trying to do these days, the Fastball (and Gerber’s custom knife program) is more representative of the company’s potential, and something that moves my personal needle a little more than the Jukebox.

But indulge me in a baseball analogy. If I look at my knives the same way a manager does with pitchers, my Benchmade Bugout is one of my starting “aces.” It will give me a lot of output, look good doing it, and is a good choice for most situations. Oppositely, something like the ESEE Junglas works as a “closer.” It won’t be an everyday sight—much to the contrary, it’s a specialized tool that gets brought in when a specific problem needs to be solved decisively.

The Gerber Jukebox, then, is that relief pitcher who’s brought into the middle of the game when your team has a commanding lead. Granted, it might not be as flashy or as effective as another option, but often the job that needs to be done won’t be meaningfully impacted by the limitations of the tool. Additionally, by relying on that tool, you save aces and closers alike from unnecessary wear and tear.

My point is that there’s a place in every bullpen for a pitcher of this sort, and there’s a place in a lot of knife drawers for the Gerber Jukebox. It’s not a perfect knife, but it is striking, and it can certainly put in work.

Sale

GERBER Jukebox, EDC Pocket Knife with Straight Edge Blade Flipper, Tortoise Shell [31-003761]

The Jukebox is reminiscent of a knife that could be found in an old school barber shop, a polished gentleman's knife that can be easily carried in pocket.
An extended tang finger flipper is uniquely designed for easy deployment without sacrificing design.
A fully fine edge, modern sheep foot blade is not only on trend, but offers practical utility for everyday tasks.
The Liner Lock safety feature provides confidence during use and easy one-handed closing, and pocket clip to keep it secure when stored.
The Jukebox features a 2.7 inch satin finished fine edge blade, with acrylic handle scales available in two unique colorways.

Editor: I recommend purchasing the Gerber Jukebox at BladeHQ or Amazon. Thank you for reading.

We Knife Co. Mini Buster Review

by John Burridge Leave a Comment

Snecx! If you haven’t heard of him yet, Snecx Tan is a Malaysian knife and tool maker who is, in my opinion, currently the most mechanically innovative knife designer in the world. His Instagram profile says “Just a hobbyist working on knives. Not a knifemaker.” That’s a bit of an understatement for someone who recently held an auction on Instagram for the one-of-a-kind prototype of his upcoming “Vision S” knife. It sold for $18,900.00 USD. That’s a pretty well-funded hobby.

Buy the Mini Buster at BladeHQ or GP Knives

There are a lot of knife enthusiasts like myself who have been eager to get our hands on a reasonably priced Snecx knife, and WE Knife Co. has delivered with the Mini Buster, which goes for $289. I’ve been using it every day for the last month, and here’s what I’ve learned: it’s a nearly perfect large-ish EDC knife with one major design flaw.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The Mini Buster is 4.5” (115 mm) closed, 7.8” (198 mm) open, and has a 3.4” (86 mm) blade made of CPM-20CV steel. The blade stock is 4 mm thick at its widest point, and the handle is about half an inch thick (13 mm) not counting the clip, which adds another 4.5 mm. So it’s no slim little Brad Zinker disappear-in-your-pocket folder, but it’s also no Cold Steel supersized monster knife either.

The blade is a very slightly curved sheepsfoot style, which I consider to be the ideal do-everything EDC blade shape. Its tip is pointy enough to pierce tough materials, and the blade is wide enough to use as a butter knife. I prefer the ergonomics of a
sheepsfoot (or wharncliffe) blade over a traditional drop point blade because, when holding the knife with my index finger on the spine of the blade to open a box, the low tip of the sheepsfoot blade keeps my wrist and arm at a more comfortable angle than when using a drop point blade.

The picture above illustrates how the Mini Buster’s sheepsfoot blade tip can cut while nearly parallel to a surface, while the drop point blade on the RealSteel Rokot needs to be at a much higher angle to utilize the tip of the blade.

The WE Mini Buster’s blade stock is Crucible CPM-20CV steel, which is a premium American-made blade steel with extremely high hardness and above-average toughness. To avoid taking an unnecessarily deep dive into metallurgy, I will just say the Mini Buster’s blade has excellent edge retention, but is more likely to chip than bend.

CPM-20CV is nearly identical to the European-made Bohler M390 steel, and these powdered-metallurgy “super steels” are THE go-to blade steels for high-end knives lately. In fact, of the 14 folding knife reviews BladeReviews.com has published so far in 2020, 35% of them had CPM-20CV or M390 blades. They’re great knife steels, and I’ve noticed that I need to sharpen my D2, CPM-154, and RWL34 knives more often than my harder steel M390 or 20CV knives.

Over the past month, I’ve been hacking away at everything in my vicinity that can be hacked at, including thick plastic packing straps, cardboard, annoying clamshell packaging, stray tangerine tree branches, and, when trying to cut a piece of baklava in half, I sliced up a metal catering pan. Despite all that, I have yet to scratch the blade’s black DLC coating or the handle’s anodizing. That’s quite impressive considering that I normally scratch my DLC coated steel blades and anodized titanium handles almost immediately.

The blade’s primary grind angle is known as a “flat” grind, which looks like a narrow symmetrical “V”.

In the kitchen, the blade’s uninterrupted “V” shape had no contours or additional angles to disrupt its slicing path through a bunch of tomatoes and cucumbers. As with nearly every folding knife, the Buster’s blade/handle configuration doesn’t allow food dicing without rapping my knuckles on the cutting board with every downstroke. Snecx tested the durability of his original Buster knife by slashing the tops off of green coconuts- I think the Mini Buster could handle that task, but it would definitely be easier with a non-Mini Buster…

I’m a pretty frugal guy, but I’m impulsive when it comes to my steel and/or gunpowder-related hobbies. It also usually takes me making the same mistake two or three times before I learn my lesson. For example, I’ve watched myself compulsively click the “buy” button on some limited-edition knives that I thought looked cool: a Dervish Knives Alchemy midtech ($395) and a Prometheus Design Werx/Strider Knives SMF “Frogskin” ($635). But my biggest impulse buy of all was in 2018 when I bought a Snecx/Jake Hoback Knives collaboration Buster ($775), which is the most I have ever spent (or ever will spend) on a knife.

Like my first marriage, I always knew I was making a mistake but went ahead with it anyway. I immediately regretted my decision- I didn’t really like them, I wanted to sell them (the marriage analogy definitely no longer applies from this point on), and so I never carried or even enjoyed them. I managed to sell the Dervish and the Strider at a loss, and I’ve tried to sell the Snecx/Hoback Buster twice with no takers. In early 2020 I saw one in the BladeHQ closeout section for $499. Maddening! I’m done with buying expensive knives.

A brief history of the Snecx/Jake Hoback Knives Buster: Snecx is indeed a knifemaker (despite his claims to the contrary) but is not a knife manufacturer, so in 2018 he launched two collaboration projects. The first was the Custom Knife Factory Terra, and the second was the Hoback Buster. According to what I’ve read on Snecx’s Instagram and Hoback’s website, Snecx’s core visual design was minimally modified, but a lot of details were changed, most notably the addition of a honeycomb pattern in the handle.

I definitely appreciate innovation and unique aesthetics, but (sorry Mr. Hoback!) I think it ended up looking like a mashup of two contrasting, not complimentary, design styles. Plus it’s huge. I give zero fucks about what the general public considers an “office-friendly” or non-scary looking knife, but the Hoback Buster is so big and heavy that it’s unwieldy.

I was surprised to see that the Hoback Buster isn’t much bigger or heavier than my Chris Reeve Knives Large Sebenza 21 (an expensive knife that I’ve never regretted buying) but in the hand, the Hoback Buster is a big manly beast knife. OK- out of the shame spiral and back to the review.

Handle, Ergonomics, and Pocket Clip

The Mini Buster feels great in use, even though I can’t quite get a full four-finger grip with my medium-large hands. The handle is long enough overall, but the upswept end of the bottom of the handle (see arrow in picture above) removes some finger gripping space. The pad of my pinky finger ends up on the handle screw near the lanyard loop, and that’s enough for me to achieve a secure grip with all four fingers.

When held in a regular grip with my thumb on the spine, my thumb naturally rests in a little indentation where the backspacer ends above the pivot, but I can also comfortably shift my thumb forward onto a section of jimping on the blade spine if I want more precise control of the blade.

The jimping ends in a stylish little dip for the tip of my thumb, which is one of four places (see arrows in picture above) on the Mini Buster where Snecx used this dip-in-a-straight(ish)-line design cue.

The Mini Buster also has a number of subtle angular details, which are definitely accentuated by the artificial edge wear of the “antique bronze” finish version I bought. There are almost no straight lines on this knife. There’s an almost subliminal curve to every part of the Mini Buster, including the blade, which has a very slight belly. Another interesting design choice on the WE Mini Buster is how the angular front tip of the handle crosses the plunge line of the blade. This is a carryover from the original Snecx Buster design.

According to Snecx, he allowed Jake Hoback to “fix” the handle angle and plunge line so they’re parallel. You can see this difference between the two knives in the picture above. But when WE Knife Co. did the same “fix” to an early Mini Buster prototype, Snecx made them retain his original Buster handle/plunge line design.

Deployment and Lockup

The Mini Buster is a framelock with a unique Snecx twist: the H.D.P.S. system. That stands for Hybrid Detent Pin System, and my admittedly limited understanding of it boils down to this: the shiny round steel pin on the lockbar (see picture below) acts as both the stop pin, which keeps the blade locked into its open position, and as the detent ball, which keeps the blade in place in its closed position.

I can’t be sure if this is a function of the HDPS system, but the Mini Buster does a far better job than most other knives of easily opening while there’s pressure on the detent. I can squeeze the lockbar section of the handle (the part attached to the aforementioned shiny round steel pin) pretty hard without hampering my ability to flip open the knife. Snecx, however, isn’t the only recent innovator on this front. Zero Tolerance Knives recently released the 0707 framelock, featuring their new Tuned Detent System, which is designed to address the same problem, but using a different mechanical approach. I watched a video review of the 0707, and although it does an admirable job of opening irregardless of pressure on the lockbar, it does not smoothly swing shut like the Mini Buster.

I only have one criticism of this knife, and this is the major design flaw I alluded to at the beginning of this review: the little tiny nubby flipper tab becomes completely inoperable if your finger is even slightly wet or slippery.

Why? The face of the flipper tab is completely smooth, without any machined texturing like most flipper-actuated knives have. That in itself isn’t necessarily a problem, but it’s also so small there’s barely any surface area for your fingertip, so a single drop of water will defeat any attempt to flip open this knife. In my wet and slippery kitchen and gardening adventures with this knife, I found that the only way to open the Mini Buster was to pinch the spine of the conveniently “V” shaped blade and manually pull it open.

Snecx is known to be an absolute perfectionist, so I don’t understand how there could be such an obvious problem like this. According to what I saw in Snecx’s Instagram posts about the WE Mini Buster, he seemed quite pleased with it, so my theory is this: the lack of flipper leverage (a conscious design choice) was deliberately compensated for by using a somewhat weak detent. The detent, which in this context is the wall of force that my index finger on the flipper tab must overcome to deploy the blade, isn’t quite strong enough to guarantee the knife completely opening every time. I suspect that the detent was made as strong as was possible given the limited leverage on the flipper tab. That’s not a huge deal, but it does require more concentration and effort to deploy the blade than is required for most knives in this price range. I’m probably overthinking all of this, but I have seen several other people mention their knives have a weak detent, so it’s possible I’m right.

Nonetheless, once the blade gets going, the ceramic ball bearings surrounding the pivot give it a smooth and easy action. It locks open with a confidence-inspiring snap, and in use it feels as solid as a fixed blade knife.

We Knife Co. Mini Buster Review – Final Thoughts

Even with it’s flipper design issues, I stand by my initial claim that this is a nearly perfect large-ish EDC knife. According to Snecx, it’s also his final framelock design. He’s moved on to his “Vision” knife, for which he has invented two new technologies: the Superlock locking system, and the Zero Flex Pivot. It became very obvious to me that Snecx was onto something special when heavy-hitter designers like Ostap Hel, Rotten Design, and Tashi Bharucha all publicly commented on the same Instagram post about Snecx’s Zero Flex Pivot. Tashi B’s comment just said “Perfection”. The Vision looks amazing, but that doesn’t matter to me at all, because as I said, I’m absolutely done with buying expensive knives.

UPDATE: I bought a $160 titanium COVID tool.

It’s a very limited edition (only 15 pieces) handmade by one of my favorite knife designers, Tashi Bharucha, in partnership with his frequent collaborator Thierry Savidan. It’s part of a series called “The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly”. I bought “The Good” (pictured above), but did not get “The Bad”, which is the same design but with three knuckle spikes. Both versions came with a little COVID-19 shaped lanyard bead engraved with the words “THE UGLY”.

Like my Hoback Buster, it’s huge and expensive, especially compared to my $17 Civivi copper COVID tool also pictured. Unlike my Hoback Buster, however, I have NO regrets about buying this thing- it’s awesome and I smile every time I whip it out to open a door or punch in my PIN number.

Finally, the Hoback Buster that I’ve been whining about for the entire review is still for sale! Hit me up in the comments or on Instagram if you want to make this “As seen on BladeReviews.com” Hoback Buster all yours…

Thank you to Sara O’Neil for the use of her painting.

We Knives Mini Buster – From $272.00
From: BladeHQ

Editor: I recommend purchasing the We Knives Mini Buster at BladeHQ or GP Knives. Thank you very much.

Bestech Marukka Review

by John Burridge Leave a Comment

Kombou is on fire lately! In the last few years, Bestech Knives has released 8 knives that he’s designed, including the Marukka reviewed here. I bought the Marukka the day it was released, and as I write this review 60 days later, two more Bestech/Kombou knives are starting to hit stores: the Wibra and the Irida.

Buy the Bestech Marukka at BladeHQ
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Kombou is the nom de couteau of Grzegorz Grabarski of Siedlce, Poland. I’m the kind of guy that notices and appreciates the evolution of an artist’s work, and I’ve been keeping an eye on Kombou for a couple of years now. I reviewed his Bestech Knives Fanga knife (see pic below) here on Blade Reviews in August 2019, and I found it be be a great knife and a good value for the money.

I’ve been stalking the Marukka on Instagram since I first saw it teased by Kombou in June of 2019. When it was finally released in April 2020, it easily passed all my stringent knife buying requirements:

Is it made of quality materials? Yes, titanium and M390 steel.
Is it reasonably priced for what it is? Yes, $272.
Is it like a big bio-mechanical stabbing machine? Yes!

I’ve been carrying the Bestech Marukka for the last 60 days. Here’s what I’ve discovered:

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The handle is 5” (127 mm), and when opened, the blade adds another 3.75” (95 mm) for an impressive overall length of 8.75” (203 mm). It’s tough to tell from the pictures, but this is a pretty big knife.

The blade steel is Bohler M390, which is an excellent powder metallurgy “super steel” with above average toughness (basically the ability to bend instead of breaking) and extremely high hardness (basically the ability to hold an edge.) M390’s bias of hardness over toughness is great for people like me who don’t sharpen their knives regularly. M390 steel or its contemporaries (like Crucible 20CV, Carpenter 204P, or Uddeholm Elmax) are generally expected in a premium production knife like the Marukka, and I’ve yet to be disappointed with the edge-holding performance any of those steels.

The blade has a substantial spine, starting out at 3.85 mm thick, but tapering to a quite thin .45 mm near the blade’s tip. The design of the Marukka’s blade appears to be simple, but there are a lot of subtle details I really like. It’s a Persian style blade, and the spine has a slight downward recurve before rising to the tip.

There’s a decorative fuller that looks straight but actually shares the slight recurve of the spine. The ricasso (the unsharpened portion of the blade between the handle and the primary sharpening bevel) is stonewashed, but the rest of the blade has a shinier satin finish, which is a cool touch in my opinion. It’s also quite difficult to show in a photograph, since it’s mainly just a difference in reflectivity.

The titanium pocket clip, pivot collar, and backspacer are anodized a brass-y/champagne-y color, and they were also hard for me to due justice to in pictures because the color is pretty subtle. There are currently two other color variants of the Marukka available, both with black stonewashed blades, but they don’t have the dual-finish blade treatment.

I’m kookoo for stabby-looking knives, but I’m also well aware of their limited usefulness in my life. My favorite knife of all time is my Microtech Ultratech signature version with a copper handle.

I don’t know what specific use the Ultratech was originally designed for, but I’m guessing it was murder. Mine even happens to be serial number 187, which is police code for… murder! I mainly use mine to murder boxes and loose threads on my clothes. The Ultatech’s blade is so thin and pointy that I can’t use it to scrape or pry anything for fear of snapping off the tip. I’m sure If I ever tried to clean under my fingernails with it, I’d be typing this with only nine fingers. Furthermore, its copper handle is so heavy that grabbing the tip of the blade between thumb and fingers to do detail work is like trying to tap in a nail with the handle of a hammer- the heavy head is at the far end, throwing off your balance. So I obviously don’t care about logic (or California switchblade knife laws), and love my impractical, stabby Ultratech.

The Marukka is far more practical and well-balanced. Its thin blade slices fruit and vegetables really well for a folding knife, and the combination of the blade’s low belly and the handle’s high arch let me dice onions without rapping my knuckles on the cutting board with every chop. It’s no kitchen knife, but it’ll do nicely in a pinch. Speaking of alternate knife uses, I always open my mail with the unsharpened spine of whatever knife is in my pocket- unless it’s the Marukka. The tip of this thing is so thin and sharp that I just know I’m going to end up slicing open my hand along with my electric bill. For me it’s usually “Oh shit, did I cut myself? There’s no blood- oh there it comes, so much blood!!!”

Placing my irrational fear aside for a moment, I think if I were to use this knife as hard as I’ve used my DPX Gear HEST/F or my Chris Reeve Knives Sebenza, then I would be a little worried about snapping off the Marukka’s tip.

The HEST/F knife (above, left) has a tip that’s protected against snapping off due to its absurdly thick blade stock, and the Sebenza’s tip is thin but is protected by geometry. My Sebenza (above, right) has the Insingo blade option, which is a sheepsfoot style blade. One of the reasons I like sheepsfoot blades is that their spines abruptly plummet down to the tip, resulting in a little more thick steel near the tip compared to the Marukka’s Persian style blade.

Handle, Ergonomics, and Pocket Clip

To test my weak tip assumption, I attacked a huge stack of industrial-sized extra thick cardboard boxes held together with large copper staples. After ten minutes of hacking them into recycling bin size (and running the blade right over the staples) I can say that the handle is comfortable and I didn’t worry once about breaking the Marukka’s tip. The balance point of this surprisingly light knife (4.02 oz / 114.4 g) is just behind the index finger groove in the handle, and it was easy to manipulate with and without gloves. The milled pocket clip added to my grip retention.

I’ve found that pocket clips often create hot spots and interfere with either a standard or overhanded grip. In fact, the DPX HEST/F (the green handled knife from a couple of pictures ago) has perhaps my least ergonomically-friendly clip of anything I own. But the Marukka’s clip is rounded and contoured, and pushed my ring and pinky fingers into an ideal grip when flipping it open. It’s obvious to me that Kombou didn’t just put the clip on as an afterthought, but thoroughly integrated it into the design.

In my months of everyday carry, the Marukka never accidentally slipped out of my pocket, but it would ride up to the tip of the clip if I’d been lying down with it clipped to my pocket. That also happens with almost every other single knife I own except my precious Microtech Ultratech, which has a “double dip” clip that keeps it snug in the bottom of my pocket.

The handle of the Marukka has 4” (102 mm) of usable gripping space, which allows me a full four finger grip with room to spare. Visually, it’s a mixture of organic curves and machine-like lines and angles. It’s like a dagger made from the Terminator’s wrist bone. The word that leaps out at me is bio-mechanical, probably because I just finished reading all five books in the “Murderbot Diaries” series of science fiction novels by Martha Wells. The main character (who calls itself Murderbot) is a human/robot hybrid, and I imagine Murderbot would appreciate the Marukka’s design aesthetic, even though it wouldn’t admit that to a human. The books are super fun, have great action interspersed with dry humor, and have won just about every sci-fi award available, including the Hugo, Nebula, Alex, and Locus Awards. Sorry- I know this is a knife review, not a book review, so back to the knife.

There are several mechanical-style details on the Marukka’s handle. The pivot screw, for example, has the look of a spinning turbine, and the machined line that travels from the pivot screw to the end of the handle looks to me like either a gear or a circuit board. The cut on the lock side that forms the framelock follows that crenelated line to some extent. That’s pretty unique, since the framelock cut is more or less a straight line on about 90% of framelock knives ever since Chris Reeve invented the framelock in the late 1980’s.

The “bio” part of the bio-mechanical theme is most evident in the shape and angles of the handle, particularly on the top of the spine.

There’s a little flat-ish area where the handle meets the blade, which is obviously designed as a comfortable thumb shelf when holding the knife in a regular grip. Behind that is another swoopy indentation, which, along with the thin milled stripes behind it, is purely decorative as far as I can tell. In matters of design, I’m a huge fan of unexpected lines and angles, and Kombou could have just kept the spine going in one long curving line like he did in the Bestech Fanga (2nd picture from the top of the article) but instead he gave us an organic, multi-angled flourish. It’s clear to me that his design style is evolving, and I enjoy noticing the steps he takes along the way.

Deployment and Lockup

The Marukka is a flipper-opening framelock, and the action is light and snappy. The blade pivots on ceramic ball bearings, and the titanium framelock has a steel insert where it meets the blade.

This theoretically replaceable insert prevents titanium on steel friction, which can sometimes result in the knife getting stuck open. This used to happen with my previously mentioned DPX Gear HEST/F, which did not have a steel lockbar insert. I realize that I’ve used it as a bad example twice now, but the HEST/F was quite technologically advanced in 2012 when I bought it- which goes to show how rapidly the knife world has advanced in the last decade.

The detent of a flipper knife controls how much force must be applied to the flipper tab to snap the blade out of its closed position. A weak detent may result in the blade not fully opening, and a detent that’s too strong just kinda sucks. The Marukka’s detent is perfect, as is the detent on the two other Bestech Knives I own. The lockup is solid and there’s no blade play either opened or closed. Actually, I can’t even think of a single modern framelock knife I’ve handled that has any blade play… well, except for my HEST/F (oh no- not again! Sorry DPX Gear!) but its blade wiggle is the direct result of it being my favorite beater knife for almost a decade.

Bestech Marukka Review – Final Thoughts

I pay a lot of attention to details, and I had to dig deep into the details to find anything negative to say about the Marukka. This is all I could come up with: the steel lockbar insert is pretty sharp, and can scratch my thumb if I hold it too far forward when closing the blade. That’s it- I have no other complaints. It’s not cheap, but neither is the the unique and precise machining that went into this big, futuristic-looking, bio-mechanical stabbing machine. Like Martha Wells’ Murderbot, the Marukka is fascinating and dangerous, but smooth around the edges. I recommend it.

Thank you to Sara O’Neil for the use of her painting.

Bestech Marukka – From $272.00
From: BladeHQ

Marukka Framelock Gray BTKT2002A

Editor: I recommend purchasing the Bestech Marukka at BladeHQ and Amazon. Thank you very much.

Kershaw Shuffle 2 Review

by Travis Pike 2 Comments

I’m on a mission. A mission to find the best, budget-priced EDC knives. Many people carry budget knives for a variety of reasons, one being they often lose them. I’ve been there and done that, so I see the logic. One budget knife brand that seems to garner some respect is Kershaw, and with that in mind, I grabbed a Kershaw Shuffle 2.

Buy the Kershaw Shuffle 2 at BladeHQ
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The Kershaw Shuffle 2 costs a mere 20 bucks, and that’s a reasonable price for a budget based knife. The Shuffle 2 is more significant than the original Shuffle but keeps its multifunction design. It also has several different features that distinguish it from the Shuffle and make it more than just a slightly modified variant.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The Kershaw Shuffle 2 sports a 2.6-inch long blade that is 0.106 inches thick. The handle is a hair under 4 inches long and is .4 inches thick. When closed, the knife is 4 inches long, and when opened, the overall length is 6.3 inches. The knife weighs just a mere 3 ounces, and that’s super light. The blade does a decent job of being efficient in both size and weight.

The Shuffle 2’s blade is an American Tanto design, so it packs a little wallop for such a small knife. The cutting edge is rather short due to the lack of any real belly to the knife. The American Tanto tip gives you a nice corner edge, and that does allow for good cuts into thicker, less friendly materials. The Shuffle 2 cuts effortlessly through heavy cardboard, clamshell packaging, several layers of duct tape, and even thicker fabrics

The blade itself is made from 8Cr13MoV, a pain-to-type, but not a bad budget steel. It’s an affordable option for discerning customers. The blade can get quite sharp and seems to hold the edge well for cheap steel. It’s not as lovely as 154CM steel, but the edge seems to last for a couple weeks’ worth of EDC tasks. The Blackwash finish is one that I’ve always been a fan of. It looks very nice and protects your knife from visible scratches and stains.

For a twenty-dollar knife, I find the 8Cr13MoV to be more than adequate. For a pocket knife, the steel is well suited for daily tasks and cuts well while looking good.

The Shuffle 2 has a big choil that your finger fits into easily and prevents the blade from closing should the lock fail. The choil is quite comfortable and is a natural extension of the grip. Not using it to hold the knife would be silly. The knife blade lacks any jimping at the top of the blade for driving it with your thumb.

The Shuffle 2 has a nice swedge for cutting through thicker materials. It does glide through things like tomatoes and allows the wide and flat blade to do its job.

Handle, Ergonomics, and Pocket Clip

The handle is an exciting design that has a gradual curve to it. The handle is designed built-in finger grooves that feel generous and conforms to your hand and does not force your hand to adjust to it.

The grip itself is made from glass-filled nylon and comes in various colors. Mine is a lovely olive green, and I honestly enjoy the look of it. The grip is also textured with an odd wave-like design that clings to the hand without being overly uncomfortable.

The grip design also fits all four of my massive fingers on it. I wear XL gloves, and my hand fits on the knife very well. The knife gives you a fantastic degree of control over the knife. The mix of a short blade and a long handle makes it very easy to handle. You can put a lot of pressure on this little blade, and it can take it.

On the bottom end of the handle is where the multifunction nature of the Shuffle 2 comes into play. The sizeable looking lanyard loop is a lanyard loop and a bottom opener, and the tip is even a flat head screwdriver. As a flat head screwdriver, you can also use it as a pry bar. These are neat, but to be honest, I’ll never use the rear of this knife for anything other than a bottle opener.

The pocket clip is skinny, but the knife is light, so it’s not a big deal. The pocket clip is reversible for either side, but you can only carry tip-up. I prefer tip down, but it’s not a deal-breaker.

Deployment and Lock-Up

Opening the knife is easy enough, and it has ambidextrous thumb studs. You can easily open the knife with one hand, and the blade does glide out of the handle very smoothly. Those thumb studs are rather small, so you can’t sling it open rapidly like most knives. I think a rear thumb flipper would be a better option. If you want to use two hands for whatever reason, you can comfortably grip the swedge and pull it open with little resistance.

The blade uses a simple nested liner lock that clicks loudly in place and delivers both an audible and tactile feedback. The Shuffle 2 does lock up very tightly and feels very solid overall. I have not noticed any movement, play, or feel like the blade is going to come loose on me. The choil also ensures the blade isn’t going to close on you as well.

The liner lock is rather small and tougher for me to reach with my fat thumb. It’s easier for me to use my index finger to hit the liner and close the lock. The Shuffle 2 is a compact knife, so I guess this is one sacrifice you have to make.

Kershaw Shuffle 2 Review – Final Thoughts

The Shuffle 2 is a rather impressive blade for the money. Color me impressed. I plan to keep seeking out budget knives, and I’m pleased the search has started so well. The Shuffle 2 is a worthwhile budget blade that is a great EDC tool. It’s not one you’d take as a survival blade, a self-defense weapon, or on deployment, but it’s a great choice for everyday carry. The Shuffle 2 offers a lot of knife for a low price.

Kershaw Shuffle II Folding Pocket Knife, Small, Lightweight Utility and Multi-Function Knife, Multiple Styles

Editor: I recommend purchasing the Kershaw Shuffle 2 at BladeHQ or Amazon. Thank you for reading.