Grayson Parker

I think it’s safe to say that my reviews rarely court controversy. I’ve never had a “Kershaw Cryo” moment a la Everyday Commentary. For the most part, I pick what I review, and I’ve yet to give a product less than a lukewarm reception. Feedback from readers often reinforces my perspective, and in turn gave me the notion that I knew what most people find attractive. The Citizen Nighthawk dispelled that illusion. From the very start, it received…well, let’s call it a “mixed reception.” The pushback was strong enough that I sought a bit of outside validation from the notorious Andrew Gene. It wasn’t quite as positive as I’d hoped:

To me, if you need the instrumentation then it’s great. Otherwise it’s a wank. All instrument watches worn by people who don’t need them are a wank. Embrace the wank if you like it. Get one. That’s what I think.

Still, it was an oddly comforting sentiment. It may be a wank of watch, but it’s no better or worse than any other wank in my life. Hell, I hear those are good for the prostate. That said, on to the review.

Fit

This watch has two weaknesses, and the first of which is how it rides on the wrist. The dimensions for the Nighthawk aren’t at fault, mind: at 41mm wide by 12.5mm thick, it’s smaller than my Seiko Turtle, which is the largest watch I own. Despite being smaller, it doesn’t actually wear as well. It’s not even the angular case that causes discomfort. No, my sole complaint when wearing the Nighthawk is the crown. It’s just longer than it needs to be. Every time your wrist bends backwards the crown will immediately dig into your wrist. While never enough of an issue to dissuade me from wearing the Nighthawk, it certainly wouldn’t be my first choice going to the gym.

Movement

Much like Benchmade and the axis lock, Citizen and the Eco-Drive are inseparable. Citizen was one of the early pioneers of solar watches, and their R&D department has pushed that particular envelope for decades. The result is a solar-powered quartz watch that reaches full charge in a matter of hours and (when fully charged) lasts 180 days. I’ll admit that it doesn’t have the same panache as a mechanical movement, but to harp on that point would be snobbish to say the least. Practically speaking, it’s an improvement. You trade the sweeping seconds hand for a power reserve and degree of accuracy unheard of in mechanical watches. My Nighthawk runs a mere 15 seconds slow after two months, though it should be noted that I didn’t set the time when I purchased it. It’s entirely possible that it was set incorrectly from the start.

Case and Crown

The Nighthawk’s case is quite distinctive. Its industrial, angular lines are evocative of aviation hardware, and the interplay between the wide crystal and the angled dial brings jet turbines to mind. The 3-piece case has held up quite well to everyday wear. My only complaint is that the caseback on models for the U.S. market are etched with the Citizen logo, whereas models for the European and Japanese markets have engraved casebacks.

As previously mentioned, the crown is a tad overlong, especially as it sits at 3 o’clock. This is a quartz watch, so you shouldn’t be interacting with the crown as frequently, but it’s functional all the same. The knurling is grippy but not aggressive, and the long crown certainly gives you a great deal of purchase. There is a second crown at 8 o’clock which rotates the slide bezel.

Dial, Crystal, and Bezel

Remember those weaknesses I mentioned? Well, if you haven’t already guessed, the dial is the second. The actual indices are clear enough, with raised columns for every hour but 12 and 6, which are marked with large, raised arabic numerals. A date function is located at 3 o’clock in a stepped window. None of those cause any problems. The real issues arise when you look at the extra functions on the Nighthawk: a GMT dial and a slide rule bezel.

Normally a GMT complication takes the shape of an additional hour hand, which is used to track a separate time zone. Citizen took a different approach. On the inside of the dial, there are two arcs, one marked 1-12 in white, the other 13-24 in red. There’s a double sided hand with a red end and a white end (and yes, both are little airplanes: – some kitsch is allowed). You read whichever color matches the hand currently over the numbers. To actually use this function, pull the crown out and rotate it away from you. This advances the primary hour hand without stopping the watch or affecting the secondary hour hands.

While the GMT complication didn’t help the Nighthawk’s legibility issues, the slide rule bezel of the Nighthawk actively exacerbates them. Slide rules are best thought of as analog calculators, and they’re not an uncommon feature on pilot watches. Computers have made them largely obsolete, but then, that’s true of watches in general, so maybe it’s best not to dwell on that topic. I’ll admit that I’ve yet to sit down and learn how to use it, but then again I’m not in flight school either. Here’s a tutorial on using one if you’re so inclined.

The Nighthawk comes equipped with a mineral crystal face. It isn’t as glamorous as sapphire crystal, but at this price point that kind of material isn’t really an option. The news isn’t all bad: while sapphire crystal boasts superior scratch resistance, it’s also more prone to shattering than mineral crystal.

Bracelet and Clasp

Because of the polarizing dial, I wasn’t entirely surprised to find that most folks are drawn to the bracelet. Mesh bracelets aren’t necessarily rare, but I see them more frequently on slimmer, dressier watches. It’s comfortable, flexible, and stands out a bit compared to a standard jubilee or oyster bracelet. Sadly, the lugs hug the case so closely that NATO straps (or similar variations) may not fit, so if you dislike the bracelet, you may be limited to two-piece replacement straps.

The Nighthawk’s bracelet (at least this iteration’s) comes equipped with a butterfly clasp. Unlike foldover clasps (which require a bit of fiddling), butterfly clasps are actuated by simultaneously pushing both pushers on the underside of the bracelet. I’ve been impressed so far. It’s simple, secure, and convenient. Still, some might prefer a more traditional clasp. If that’s the case, I suggest the BJ7000-52E.

Citizen Nighthawk – Final Thoughts

If you can’t tell, the Citizen Nighthawk is a bit of a mixed bag. On one hand, the execution is fantastic: I’d go so far as to say it’s nearly flawless. On the other, some of the design choices leave a lot to be desired, most notably the overlong crown. I can’t heavily criticize the slide rule and GMT functions, as both seem valuable to pilots and heavy travelers, but be aware that they clutter up the dial.

Frankly, I realize that this review – like the Nighthawk itself – is a bit of a wank. Those of you who already liked the Nighthawk won’t be turned off by anything I have to say. Likewise, the vocal detractors of the Nighthawk won’t have a sudden change in taste after reading this review. Personally, I’m glad I picked one up: I won’t be getting rid of it anytime soon, barring unforeseen circumstances.

Citizen Men's BJ7000-52E Nighthawk Stainless Steel Eco-Drive Watch

List Price: $395.00

Current Price: $229.00

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I recommend purchasing the Citizen Nighthawk at Amazon. Please consider that purchasing anything through any of the links on this website helps support BladeReviews.com, and keeps the site going. As always, any and all support is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

Seiko divers are iconic. Practically every review of a Seiko diver paints a picture of a high value tool watch, and the Seiko SRP779 is no different. The SRP77X line is not a new addition to the catalog, but a reissue of the beloved Seiko 6309 (or “Turtle”). For years, buying a vintage Turtle was a way to pick up a fantastic watch on the cheap, but over the years supplies dwindled and costs rose. When the reissue was announced, it was met with mingled praise and shock, both of which were positively reinforced once the new Turtles trickled out into the market.

I’d like to do something a bit different this time and take a moment for a PSA. Most knife and gear folks I know are familiar with the concept of buying secondhand gear. Often this gear is gently used – if at all – and buying this way is easier on the wallet. This is mostly true for watches, but not in all cases. In the secondary watch market, potential buyers aren’t just looking at secondhand sales, but something known as the grey market. Grey market watches are legitimate products, in that they aren’t stolen or counterfeit, but are sold through back channels not intended by the manufacturer. Sometimes an authorized dealer needs to move a bit of product without selling it themselves; in which case, they’ll sell to a grey market dealer. Maybe someone has a source for watches sold in international markets, where exchange rates can play havoc with the price controls watch manufacturers put in place.

Whatever the source of a grey market watch, you should know that there are hidden costs associated with them. Most commonly, they won’t be covered under the manufacturer’s warranty, and that includes servicing, repairs, diagnostics, the lot. For some watches, those service costs can hit three and even four figures. Moral of the story: be an informed consumer, regardless of how you purchase a watch. I only mention all of this because I’m not entirely sure that my watch isn’t grey market, and it was a pain to figure out what that meant after the fact. With that out of the way, on to the review.

Fit

The Seiko Turtle is not a svelte watch. That shouldn’t come as a surprise: it weighs 4.28 oz, with a 44.3x48mm, 14mm tall case. The bezel does tend to catch on shirt cuffs – especially on dressier shirts – and that same height means that the wearer is more likely to scuff up the watch on doors, corners, handrails, etc. Don’t mistake my meaning: it’s not actively bothersome, just a little fussy from time to time. The horizontal dimensions of the watch have never given me any trouble. Is it a wide watch? Yes, but the lug to lug distance is actually pretty tame at 48mm (for reference, that’s a hair less than the Bertucci A-2T).

Shirt cuffs aside, this watch is incredibly comfortable. Prior to the arrival of the SRP779, I didn’t quite understand why this particular style was referred to as a “cushion case diver.” After wearing it on a near daily basis for several months, the mystery was solved. This is quite simply the most comfortable watch I’ve ever worn. Sure, it has an unfortunate tendency to pick fights with sleeves, but the same curves that start those brawls are the ones that make the Turtle superb on the wrist.

Movement

The movement Seiko uses for the Turtle reissue is the 4R36, an in-house movement that offers a few upgrades to the venerable 7s26 movement offered on the SKX line, notably the option to hand-wind the watch and a “hacking” seconds hand (that just means the seconds hand stops when you pull the crown out). Both features are desirable if you’re the sort of person with a few different watches, as they allow the watch to be part of a rotation with far less hassle. The 41 hour power reserve is no slouch in this regard either.

Of course, this was also my first experience with a mechanical (or rather, automatic) watch. To state the obvious: no, it’s not as accurate as a quartz movement. I haven’t bothered to sit down and parse out the seconds lost/gained in a day, but it does need to be reset once a month or so. Estimates online hover at +/- 15 seconds per day, but if serviced that number can be brought down. The hacking seconds hand makes adjusting the time far less onerous than it would be otherwise. Still, a mechanical movement requires more upkeep and is less accurate, so is it worth it? In my opinion: yes, but not for any reason that could be considered objective. The sweeping seconds hand is beautiful, but not a mark of performance, and while it’ll never require a new battery, getting it serviced every few years is recommended (which is undoubtedly more expensive than a new battery).

Despite the quirks, I like the mechanical nature of the SRP779. There’s just something cool about a device powered solely by the motion of the human body, of gears whirring, springs winding, and weights swinging that a battery powered watch can’t capture. You might think I’m full of it, and that’s completely fair. My only rebuttal is that much like stropping a knife, inking a fountain pen, or really any gear maintenance, there’s a meditative quality to the upkeep that makes it not just palatable, but enjoyable.

Case/Crown

The stainless steel case is simple but distinctive. Cushion case divers are certainly in the tool watch category, and the SRP779 is no exception. The top of the case has a brushed finish in a circular pattern, while the underside was given a polish on par with a mirror. This two-tone finishing provides a touch of understated class to an otherwise function driven case (though it makes photography a bit frustrating). All of this is held together by a screw down caseback.

As a recent convert from the world of quartz, I didn’t realize the emphasis watch collectors place on the crown of a mechanical watch. After reflection, it makes sense: you’ll be interacting with a mechanical more frequently, so accessibility, traction, and (dare I say it) action are part and parcel of the tactile experience. The crown of the Turtle is – as best as I understand it – quite good. It’s located at just above 4 o’clock on the case, which keeps it from poking your wrist at odd angles. The machining is even and crisp. Winding the movement and setting the time are pleasant enough, all things considered, but I’m not qualified enough to say more than that.

Dial, Crystal, and Bezel

In many respects, the dial is the most striking feature of the Turtle. The black face of the dial is marked at five minute increments with raised pips, each of which is coated with Seiko’s Lumibrite paint. Dashes indicating minute marks are found on the chapter ring, which is at a 45 degree angle to the dial. There is a day/date function at 3 o’clock with a beveled window, and sword hands complete the package. The hands are polished along the edges with Lumibrite interiors. As much as I gripe about the height of the watch above, it’s the height that accommodates all of these features, so take my complaints with a grain of salt.

Two issues regarding the dial: first, most reviews note that the chapter ring is misaligned. I’m either dense, blind, or lucky, as I haven’t noticed that on my model. Second: unlike the original Turtle, the Lumibrite pip on the seconds hand is located not at the tip, but at the rear of the hand on the opposite side of the stem. It’s not so much a flaw as an oddity. Taken as a whole, however, the topography of the dial is gorgeous, especially for someone who thus far has only experienced painted numerals on flat surfaces.

Seiko uses their proprietary crystal, Hardlex, on the SRP779. The Turtle reissue is priced right around the point that sapphire crystal becomes feasible, but as Seiko uses Hardlex on four figure plus watches, I don’t know how much I can criticize them for using it here. Despite innumerable scrapes and dings, the crystal hasn’t picked up any visible scratches. It doesn’t have the shimmer that sapphire crystal does, but in the right light the Hardlex is practically invisible, which has a charm all of its own. The depth I mentioned above is absolutely entrancing when the crystal vanishes.

There are a number of color configurations available for the Turtle reissue, and the best known is likely the black & gold variant. It’s very handsome, and it does dress the watch up, but it’s not the configuration I chose. I’ve been on a couple dives, and hope to go on more, so I chose the blue and red variant. If those options are too colorful for you, there’s always the black and silver version. After several months of wear, there are a few points where the anodizing isn’t -quite- perfect, but you’d practically need a jeweller’s loupe to notice them. It’s not something that catches the eye with a casual glance to check the time.

The unidirectional dive bezel has actually proved quite useful. I use it to time samples at work, to set rest periods while exercising, to measure how long my commute takes, and countless other minor tasks. Rotating the bezel requires enough effort that accidental engagements are rare, but not so much effort that wet or sweaty hands couldn’t set it. The machining on the lip of the bezel (I’d hate to call something this polished “knurling”) adds visual interest and improves traction. Incidentally, the bezel is unidirectional so that if you are on a dive and accidentally shift the timer, you will only ever lose time. The last thing you want is to brush your watch against some equipment and end up thinking you’ve got fifteen minutes your oxygen tank can’t corroborate.

Strap

Up to this point, many of the pictures for this review have not featured the strap the watch came with, and you may be wondering if that’s a reflection on the quality of the strap. It isn’t. The rubber strap on my SRP779 is incredibly comfortable and doesn’t look or feel cheap. Yes, it’s rubber, but in the same way that a Nikon is made of plastic. I regularly switch between the stock strap and a NATO style nylon strap. When these photos were taken the weather was a little cooler, so I didn’t have to worry about sweat leeching into the strap. Now that my region is regularly hitting triple digits, the Turtle is rubber-clad once more. Readers should note that swapping the strap is made easier by drilled lugs.

Seiko SRP779 Review – Final Thoughts

Sometimes a purchase can represent a watershed moment in your understanding of quality. I’m sure most of us remember buying our first Spyderco or Benchmade after carrying nothing but swap meet specials. It was game changer, right? I’m not trying to imply that my prior watches were on the same tier as swap meet specials; rather, that the gulf in quality between those watches and the Turtle reissue is similarly vast. Due to my inexperience in the world of watches, I can’t make an informed comparison to other watches in this price bracket, but what I can say is that the Seiko Turtle has completely reset my expectations of quality. Hopefully that’s recommendation enough.

Seiko Men's Automatic Diver Watch with Black Silicone Strap

List Price: $289.00

Current Price: Too low to display

Price Disclaimer

If you are thinking of buying a Seiko SRP779 (or the 777), please consider purchasing it at Amazon. By purchasing things through any of the links on this website you support BladeReviews.com, keep the website free of annoying banner ads, and help produce future reviews. Thank you very much.