Chad McBroom

Chad McBroom is the owner and founder of Comprehensive Fighting Systems, and specializes in practical empty-hand, blade, stick, and firearms applications. Chad is the author of "Solving the Enigma: Insights into Fighting Models" and has contributed to several books on knife fighting. Chad is also a blade designer and design consultant, using his extensive knowledge of edged weapon tactics to help design some of the most versatile bladed weapons on the market.

Spyderco P’Kal Review

by Chad McBroom 4 Comments

The word pikal (also spelled pakal) is a Visayan dialect word that literally means “to rip.” In the Filipino martial arts, the name is generally used to describe the method of holding a knife in a reverse grip (aka ice pick grip), but more specifically denotes a reverse grip with the edge inverted, facing toward the user. The Spyderco P’Kal is a specialized folding knife designed specifically for reverse-edge knife tactics.

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The P’Kal was designed in collaboration with Craig Douglas, a career law enforcement officer, life-long martial artist, and the founder of ShivWorks. Douglas, also known as “SouthNarc,” is a huge advocate of reverse-edge knife tactics and has collaborated on several method-specific knife designs, including another Spyderco knife, the Spyderco Reverse.

Unlike the traditional use of a blade where the edge is facing outward and is driven by “pushing” motions using the smaller muscle groups located in the front of the upper torso, reverse edge movements are driven by ”pulling” motions using the large muscles located in the back. These techniques are point-driven. The result of the pikal method is a penetrating stab that creates a deep laceration as the blade is pulled (ripped) out of the target.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The P’Kal has a fully flat ground, 2.95” (75 mm) modified Wharncliffe style blade. The leading edge of the Wharncliffe blade design only amplifies the ripping qualities of the P’Kal, since the energy applied during the cut is transferred toward the tip.

The blade is constructed out of 0.125” (3.2 mm) CPM S30V stainless steel. Crucible Steel Company’s proprietary powdered cutlery steel is one of the best knife steels on the market with its high corrosion resistance and edge retention capabilities. It is one of my personal favorites, especially for a purely defensive blade.

When closed, the P’Kal is 4.40” (112 mm) long, making it an excellent size for Every-Day Carry (EDC). Weighing in at just 3.7 ounces (105 grams), the added weight of the P’Kal is hardly noticeable when carried in the front pocket.

Handle, Ergonomics, and Pocket Clip

The P’Kal has a black G-10 handle with reversible steel wire pocket clip that can be mounted on either side, allowing the user to opt for an edge-forward or edged-back carry configuration. The tension on the clip is very tight out of the box, but loosens up to be just right with a little use. When seated in the pocket, the knife rides just high enough to allow the use to gain a firm purchase on the handle for rapid deployment.

The handle is extremely comfortable when held with either a forward or reverse grip in the intended reverse edge configuration. The addition of a secondary finger notch on the edge side of the handle (which doubles as a cutaway for the thumb hole) allows for comfortable use with a traditional edge-outward grip. At first glance, this notch appears to be located too far back on the handle to be practical; however, once you get the knife in your hand, you quickly realize that it is placed in exactly the right position given the blade and handle geometry.

The liner has 1.5-inches of aggressive jimping along the portion that make contact with palm. This jimping, which extends just past the G-10 scales, coupled with the rough texture of the scales themselves makes for an exceptional gripping surface that works even when wet.
Unlike fixed-blade knives that can be designed with a more neutral grip, folders are more limited due to the blade folding into the handle. It is a rare thing to find a folder that works well in every grip. If you keep in mind that the P’Kal is a fighting knife made for use with a full-hand grip, then you will find the design works for multiple grip configurations.

Deployment and Lockup

The P’Kal has a removable post-style Emmerson Wave feature for rapid deployment. The recommended carry method is tip up at the front of the pocket. When carried in this configuration, the knife can be simultaneously opened on the draw stroke by hooking the post on the front of the pocket. When gripped properly, the knife can be rolled into the pikal grip position immediately after opening. Of course, the blade can also be opened manually using the Spyderco’s famous round thumb hole. When using the thumb hole to deploy the blade, the handle geometry ensures that you will find yourself with a natural reverse-edge forward grip upon lockup.

The ambidextrous caged Ball Bearing Lock located behind the tang is one of Spyderco’s strongest locking mechanisms. This unique, patented locking system has a ball bearing that sits inside a slightly curved channel which provides a track for the bearing. The ball bearing is pushed toward the blade by a small shaft that is surrounded by a coil spring. As the blade rotates open, the ball bearing pushes past the detent and into the new channel to lock the blade in position.

Since the ball bearing rolls freely throughout the blades travel, the action on the P’Kal is very smooth and the lockup is firm every time. My knife was very tight out of the box, to the point where I would have multiple failed wave deployments. This was a problem that needed to be fixed because I do not wish to lose any fingers from a blade collapsing on my hand. After applying some Nano-Oil and working the blade a couple hundred times in hopes that it would loosen up, I went to the tool box and grabbed a hex wrench. I loosened the pivot pin screw ever so slightly, which immediately resolved the problem.

Spyderco P’Kal Review – Final Thoughts

The Spyderco P’Kal is in my opinion one of the best purpose-built defensive blades on the market. As a big proponent of reverse-edge knife tactics myself, I see tremendous value in the P’Kal as a dedicated defensive blade and cannot recommend it highly enough for such a purpose. It have become my go-to EDC folder.

One of the benefits of the P’Kal is the availability of a training version of the knife. Even though the cost for the trainer is right up there with the cost of the live version, I can’t stress the importance of the trainer enough. It is an investment that will have a far greater return if you dedicate yourself to putting in the training hours.

When choosing to carry a specialized knife like the P’Kal as a self-defense tool, it is important to seek out proper instruction from a qualified edged weapons instructor. For those who may not have access to an instructor, there are other alternatives. Craig Douglas has two excellent DVDs on the ShivWorks Reverse Edge Methods if you can find them. Scott Babb of Libre Fighting also has a newly released DVD titled, “Reaper Method – Tredecim” which covers his approach to rapid knife deployment / employment (think in terms of the Japanese art of Iaido) using a reverse-edge (scythe) grip. Both men take different approaches to reverse-edge knife tactics, but they each present valuable information on the topic.

Spyderco P'Kal Specialty Knife with 2.95" CPM S30V Stainless Steel Reverse Edge Blade and Black G-10 Laminate Handle - PlainEdge - C103GP

P'KAL - "Pikal" is a devastatingly effective system of Filipino martial arts tactics. It is also the inspiration for the Spyderco P'Kal folding knife.
Ball Bearing Lock - This lock features a patented compressive lock that wedges a ball bearing between a fixed anvil and the blade tang. The mechanism also serves as a detent to hold the blade in the closed position.
EMERSON OPENER - This features a small integral hook on the spine of a knife's blade that catches on the edge of the pocket as the knife is drawn. The hook pivots the blade into the open position.
Full-Flat Grind - This knife features a blade ground with flat bevels that extend from the spine all the way to the cutting edge. This grind reduces drag during cutting and decreases overall weight.
Specifications - Closed Length (Inches): 4.4, Overall Length (Inches): 7.35, Blade Length (Inches):2.95, Blade Steel: CPM S30V, Grind: Full-Flat

I recommend purchasing the Spyderco P’Kal at Amazon or BladeHQ. Please consider that purchasing anything through any of the links on this website helps support BladeReviews.com, and keeps the site going. As always, any and all support is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

Okapi 907 Review

by Chad McBroom 6 Comments

A while back, I did a review of the Cold Steel Kudu, Lynn Thompson’s modern take on the South African Okapi 907. Within that article, I made some statements concerning the quality and reliability of the traditional Okapi which were based on personal research and input from South African friends experienced with the Okapi. After reading my review, CAS Iberia, an importer of authentic South African Okapi knives sent me a couple Okapi 907 models to review, hoping to change my opinion of this South African classic.

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Different regions of the world are often known for a particular knife or knife design. In Switzerland, it is the Swiss Army Knife, in Sweden, it is the Mora, and in Africa, it is the Okapi. The original Okapi was produced in Solingen, Germany in the early 1900s for export to the German colonies in Africa. The name comes from a unique, endangered African animal that has the face of a deer, the shape of a giraffe, and the stripes of a zebra on it legs and hind quarters. In 1988, All Round Tooling (aka Okapi South Africa) purchased the trademark and tooling and moved production to South Africa, where production takes place in the small village of Isithebe, north of Durban.

To those initiated into the blade arts, the Okapi is easily recognizable as the knife of the Piper System. Although much more refined in its current state, Piper originated essentially as a research model into the movement and methodology of the Cape Gangster, for the purpose of learning effective defense against this knife-wielding criminal element. The popularity of the Okapi amongst the South African criminal element has earned it a somewhat nefarious reputation, to the extent that it has been dubbed the “Saturday night special” of knives. While its history is colorful and fascinating, the real question is whether this inexpensive knife that has garnered a cult-like following over the years can overcome the hype and prove to be a knife worthy of its stature.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The 907 is made using what the manufacturer describes only as “carbon steel.” My research suggests the steel grade used in most Okapis is 1055. 1055 is a plain carbon steel that has about a 0.55% (0.5% – 0.6%) carbon content. It is a good hard-use steel that is commonly found in machetes, tomahawks, throwing knives, and swords because of its toughness and survivability against repeated impacts; however, due to its relatively low carbine content, it is often found lacking in the edge-retention category.

At first glance, the untrained eye might take the 907’s 104mm stamped blade as having a flat grind (the word “grind” being used loosely, since it is not actually ground), but it is in fact chisel ground with a right-side bevel. The thinness of the blade (2.5mm) and the presence of double-sided micro-bevel makes this difficult to detect. It is a secret that is only revealed by the very slight plunge line on the bevel side. The factory edge had much to be desired and required some intervention to make it functional. I was able to put a very sharp edge on it, though.

The finish of blade spine was pretty rough. It had a depression that ran the length of the blade, with small, visually detectable grooves running perpendicularly. The blade finish had a fair polish. One of the knives had a small, unintended divot in the left side of the blade, serving mostly as a cosmetic flaw.

Handle, Ergonomics, and Carry

The banana-shaped handle of the 907 is 137mm long and made from two pieces of resin-impregnated wood. A decorative but rough moon and stars metal inlay accents the wood on the left side. The wood spacer behind the lock spring had a slightly rough fit with some dark discoloration. It is difficult to determine whether this dark color is a result of the epoxy resin holding it together, or if the wood was burnt during sanding. Considering it was present on both knives, and the other Okapis I have seen, I am leaning more toward the resin as the culprit.

The handle is thin and narrow, but not uncomfortable in the hand. The absence of any sort of guard makes it so that the user can adjust their grip along the handle, but obviously adds the danger of the hand slipping up onto the blade during any type of thrusting action with the knife. This is inherent with the ring-lock design in general and is not specific to the 907 or the Okapi brand. Just realize that this knife is designed for cutting, not thrusting.

Deployment and Lockup

The 907 utilizes a ring-lock mechanism (different from the rotating bolster found on Opinel Knives). A ring-lock is kind of like a back-lock in function, except instead of pressing down on the back of the locking bar (rocker bar) to release the lock, you pull up on the ring located near the front of the locking bar. This mechanism is composed of stamped metal and is completely external. The reliability of the locking mechanism was one of the criticisms I gave of the Okapi in my review of the Kudu; however, the lockup on the two 907 samples I received was quite decent.

Blade deployment requires two hands to do safely. There is a technique for utilizing a one-hand deployment, but this requires modification to the locking mechanism to decrease the spring tension on the lock. Not something I recommend.
There is also some play in the blade as there are no spacers present. In fact, placing a moderate amount of lateral tension on the Blade will cause the thin handle to flex above the small pivot pin, indicating that a reasonable amount of leverage against that joint will likely cause the handle to snap.

The tang of the 907 has several notches which give it a “ratcheting” effect when opening and closing. These notches are there to prevent the blade from snapping closed when disengaging the lock, which requires the user to pull on the ring while simultaneously pressing against the back of the blade. The safest way to disengage the lock is to place your index finger through the ring and brace your thumb against the spine of the blade, then pull the ring and push against the blade. Interestingly, because of the locking mechanism design, this style of knife is known as a “ratchet knife” in Jamaica, where the Okapi is the most popular version.

Okapi 907 Review – Final Thoughts

As a collector and enthusiast of weapons and tools of the world, I find the Okapi 907 to be both fascinating and attractive in its own special way. It is not a high-end knife, nor is it a high-quality knife. It is what it is, and that is an inexpensive workman’s knife. Its rough features and cosmetic flaws are the very thing that I find attractive about this knife.

This would not be a knife that I would seek out for everyday use. In fact, I stand by my original argument that the Cold Steel Kudu is superior to the Okapi 907 in every aspect. The Kudu has a superior level of quality, durability and reliability, is more aesthetically pleasing, as is more reasonably priced. No, for me the desirability of the Okapi 907 comes from the feeling of owning an iconic piece of history that only comes with owning an authentic Okapi with all its flaws and shortcomings.

Let me leave you with a final word of caution concerning ring-lock knives. While working on this review, I was comparing the lockup of the Kudu and the 907. During my examination of the Kudu, I found myself at a point where I could not get the lock to disengage using the technique I described earlier (even though I have done this a hundred times before) because the spring tension was so tight.

To get some added leverage, I placed my left hand on the back of the blade, keeping my fingers and thumb straight so as not to let them get in the way of the blade, and kept my right index finger and thumb in their original position. When the lock finally disengaged, the knife turned clockwise and the blade rotated inward on the ring, bypassed all the safety notches, and closed on my thumb. The result was a deep ¾” laceration and a trip to the ER. An exciting way to learn how NOT to close a ring-lock knife.

Okapi Knife and Tool KO19070 Big Sable Pocket Knife

Made in South Africa
1055 high carbon steel blade
Cherry handle

I recommend purchasing the Okapi 907 at Amazon or BladeHQ. Please consider that purchasing anything through any of the links on this website helps support BladeReviews.com, and keeps the site going. As always, any and all support is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

DPx Gear HEFT 4 Assault Review

by Chad McBroom 4 Comments

Last Updated: August 11, 2019
Robert Young Pelton is a journalist, author, and documentary filmmaker with a reputation as an adventurer with an uncanny ability to enter into violent and deadly areas of the world return with a stunning story. Pelton’s experiences led him to create his own brand of knives after much frustration with the inadequacy of other knives on the market. As a result, Pelton founded DPx (Dangerous Places Extreme) Gear, Inc. in 2011, to create a line of gear based on his own “specific needs for equipment in hostile and deadly environments.”

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Touted as the big brother to the DPx HEST, the HEFT 4 (Hostile Environment Survival Tool), designed by Italian knife designer Tommaso Rumici and Robert Young Pelton, is one of the newer models in the DPx Gear lineup.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The HEFT 4 Assault has a four-inch “sword-ground” blade made from 0.19-inch (4.83 mm) German Lohmann Niolox® 1.4153.03 steel, which has been cryo-hardened to a hardness of 61 HRC. Niolox® is a niobium-enhanced, high-performance stainless blade steel produced in Germany by Lohmann Stahl (Steel). Niobium is one of the best stable carbide formers, aiding in the formation of martensite, a crystalline microstructure of iron atoms that is formed during quenching and what gives a blade its hardness.

Although my HEFT came extremely sharp out of the box, I have read complaints by others who have said theirs were not sharp enough. I don’t know how to answer to that. All I can say is that this was not an issue for me. Even after spending some time in the field cutting away at wood and other common materials, I have yet to find the need to re-sharpen this blade. That being said, I would not be at all surprised if it takes a lot of elbow grease to put an edge back on it (if you ever need to), considering the hardness of this blade.

The HEFT 4 weights 6.95 ounces with an overall length of 9.05 inches. The length and weight makes the knife very manageable. In fact, I expected the knife to be much heavier at first glance, but it is surprisingly light given its beefy design.

The Stonewashed version of the HEFT 4 Assault has a matte black TiCN PVD coating that is tumbled for a grey stonewashed look. The result is an intimidatingly beautiful finish that is as functionally durable as it is aesthetically pleasing.

Handle and Ergonomics

The HEFT’s ergonomic handle and black G10 handle scales are hollowed out to offer a mini storage cavity for carrying fire starter, cordage, fish hooks, a button compass, or whatever survival necessities you deem worthy of residing inside. The handle scales are secured in place with 304 stainless steel hybrid slotted/Allen screws. These screws can be removed with a standard screwdriver, 3mm Allen wrench, or even better, the DPx Mr. DP Skull Tool. A ¼” magnetized hex driver is located on the right side of the handle near the pommel, adding even more functionality to this awesome piece of hardware.

The HEFT features a bottle opener/pry bar that also functions as a striker pommel (read skull crusher) at the end of the handle. This innovative pommel design has an integrated lanyard hole, which no survival knife would be complete without. The most unique feature on a knife loaded with “extras” is probably the wire-stripper “jimping” on the thumb ramp. These three wire-sized cutouts that provide thumb traction during cutting are also, in fact, wire strippers. It is a subtle addition that is easily overlooked if you are not in the know.

The handle fits very nicely in the hand, providing an angle and grip similar to that of any one of the ESEE® brand knives (interestingly, several of DPx Gear’s knives are made by Rowen Manufacturing, the company that manufactures ESEE Knives), but with a bit more purchase area. The upward sloping thumb ramp mentioned earlier provides a convenient backstop that aids in cutting and penetrating tasks alike. If you lose control of this blade, it’s because you weren’t holding on to it.

Sheath

The HEFT 4 comes with a black CORDURA® sheath that has a hard plastic insert. A single MOLLE attachment point is present on the back of the sheath, which allows it to be mounted to the outside of a MOLLE equipped pack or vest. The addition of two grommet holes at the bottom and plastic D-rings at each end of the sheath allow for quite a few mounting configurations. A retention loop with a button snap holds the knife securely in place when housed inside the sheath. There is also an outside pocket that can be used to carry a sharpening stone, ferro rod, hex bits, or whatever small item(s) you may find convenient to have around while in the brush.

DPx HEFT 4 Assault Review – Final Thoughts

I highly recommend the DPx HEFT 4 Assault as an all-around, hard-use knife. Its array of unique features lends it to be a fixed-blade multi-tool with pry-bar durability. It is the total package when it comes to beauty and functionality—the Land Rover of knives if you will. For the price of this knife, you can’t go wrong.

The HEFT 4 Assault is made in Maniago, Italy by LionSTEEL. The Italians have a pretty solid reputation when it comes to making knives, and LionSTEEL, owned by Gianni Pauletta and family, is one of the most reputable knife-making companies in Italy.

DPx Gear offers a lifetime, no-questions-asked warranty on their knives, so you can buy in confidence, knowing that if anything happens to your knife, they’ll have you covered, and you won’t have to tear you house apart looking for that warranty card that you actually threw away with the box.

Dianova DPXHFX002 Heft 4 Assault Tactical Knives

Perfect purchase for a gift
Great craftsmanship
A must buy item

I recommend purchasing the DPx Gear HEFT 4 Assault at Amazon or BladeHQ. Thanks for reading.

Cold Steel Kudu Review

by Chad McBroom 5 Comments

Last Updated: August 3, 2019
There is a knife in South Africa known as the Okapi. Originally produced in Germany in the early 1900s for export to the German colonies in Africa, the trademark and tooling was purchased by All Round Tooling (aka Okapi South Africa) in 1988 and all production moved to South Africa. Made from high carbon or stainless steel, the Okapi is known as a workman’s knife due to its price and availability. For the same reasons, the Okapi is quite popular with the criminal element in South Africa.

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The fighting systems of various peoples are always influenced by external factors. (I discuss this in detail in my book, Solving the Enigma: Insights into Fighting Models if you would really like to delve into this topic.) One of those influencing factors is weapon technology. The defects in the Okapi can be seen through the Cape Knife Fighting methods used by the criminal element of South Africa.

The Okapi has an unreliable ring-lock locking system and a dull blade that refuses to take or hold much of an edge. As a result, the knife is used in a reverse grip with the edge facing inward. Holding the knife edge inward ensures that in the event the lock fails, the blade will not collapse onto the user’s fingers. The blade is used to deliver ripping stabs since slashing and cutting strokes are rather ineffective.

Lynn Thompson of Cold Steel has a reputation for taking historical weapon and blade designs and reworking them with modern materials and Cold Steel technology to turn them into fully functional and virtually indestructible renditions of their ancestors. That is exactly what Cold Steel did with the Kudu, their reconstruction of the classic Okapi.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The flat ground Kudu blade is constructed out of German 4116 Stainless Steel. Unlike the Okapi, the 4 ¼” blade of the Kudu is razor sharp right out of the box. The blade is thin in the tradition of the original Okapi, measuring at only two millimeters thick, and has an image of a kudu (a species of South African antelope) printed on the blade. The blade is most likely stamped out and then ground in the fashion of many Swiss Army Knives, rather than CNC machined, which gives it a little bit of a third-world feel to it. The blade is perfectly centered, but there is a bit of side-to-side play which is most likely due to the type of spacers used.

The entire knife is a whopping 10 inches long—not a small knife by any means. Lynn Thompson likes big folding knives and it shows that he did not take any exception with the Kudu. This knife is surprisingly light, however. At only 2.4 ounces, this knife feels like a feather in the hand.

The clip point blade of the Kudu is extremely sharp out of the box. I did some quick paper cutting tests with it and it performed superbly. Not having a lot of experience with Krupp 4116, I had to do a little research on this particular steel’s properties. Although all of the Internet commandos have their own opinions, but as far as metallurgy is concerned, 4116 is a modified form of 420C and is said to be on par with 440C for edge retention characteristics, but has a better corrosion resistance than 440C. So far, I would have to say that the Kudu’s edge retention has been pretty close to most of my 440C blades.

Handle, Ergonomics, and Carry

The curved handle of the Kudu is made from what appears to be two pieces of black zytel (Zy-Ex) fused together to form one piece. With the exception of the pivot pin, all of the handle hardware is external. The handle has a decorative metal kudu horn inlaid into the left side and a wood grain texture.

The faux wood grain texture on the handle adds to both the appearance and grip of the handle. The lack of any type of finger grooves means you can extend or choke up on the grip without any discomfort; however, with the absence of any kind of guard or quillon, this is not a knife that you would want to use for stabbing.

The Kudu does not have any type of pocket clip to facilitate carrying (Man, have we gotten spoiled or what?). The handle of the Kudu is so long that it actually carries fairly well in the back pocket of a pair of jeans, or in the front pocket along the seam. For an average size person, the ring will actually rest at the top of the pocket. Allowing the ring to sit just outside the pocket will put the knife within easy access.

I performed some testing on the locking mechanism to see just how reliable it is. I gave it five solid spine whacks and five radius hits just below the tang. The blade remained solidly locked with no signs of compromise. I have no doubt the ring-lock on this knife is solid and dependable.

Deployment and Lockup

Kudu deployment requires two-handed opening using the thumbnail groove on the blade. Like the Okapi, the Kudu has a ring-lock, but one that actually works. For those who may not be familiar with this type of locking mechanism, a ring-lock is similar to a back-lock in function, except instead of pressing down on the back of the locking bar (rocker bar) to release the lock, you pull up on a ring near the front of the locking bar. Also, with a lock-back, the locking bar is inside the frame and fits into a cutout in the tang and locks the blade, whereas with a ring-lock, the locking bar is external and has a cutout that a notch in the tang fits into to lock the blade. Of course, this type of ring-lock system is completely different from the ring-lock system used by Opinel Knives, which involves rotating the bolster.

The lockup on the Kudu is quite strong. It takes some effort to disengage the locking bar. Again, for those not familiar with a ring-lock, there is some technique involved in closing this knife. Failure to use the proper technique could wind you up in the emergency room having your fingers stitched back together. To close the Kudu, you place your index finger through the ring and brace your thumb against the spine of the blade, then pull the ring and push against the blade. The tang of the Kudu has several notches that act as safety stops to prevent the blade from closing too quickly, but it is still important to keep your fingers clear of the blade’s path.

There are some techniques for modifying the Kudu to open and close a little smoother, but I will not discuss them here since this is done at the cost of some of the knife’s locking integrity. An interesting side note on deployment is that South African gang members will carry the Okapi partially open in the back pocket so that when it is pulled out by the handle, the tip of the blade catches on the seam, in the fashion of an Emerson Wave, and opens the blade. This works because of the dull blade and weak spring of the Okapi. If you tried this with the Kudu, you would end up with a partially opened knife and half of a back pocket.

Cold Steel Kudu Review – Final Thoughts

The Cold Steel Kudu is not a high-end tactical knife by any stretch of the imagination. It is well designed and well built, but it does feel cheap—because it is cheap. The Kudu retails for $9.99, but can usually be picked up for about $6.00. For a utility knife that can be used in the kitchen or thrown in the bottom of a tackle box, the Kudu is hard to beat on price alone. It blows away any knife you might buy at your local retailer for even double its retail price.

I typically carry high-quality, hard-use tactical knives on a daily basis since my primary purpose for an EDC knife is self-protection. With that being said, the Kudu will definitely not become my new EDC knife as it is neither designed to be nor intended to be a tactical knife, but I will definitely be throwing one in my utility drawer and probably one for a spare blade in my bug-out bag.

Cold Steel 20K Ring Lock Folding Knife

Kudu features a highly rust resistant and beautifully mirror polished stainless steel blade
handle is made from durable glass-reinforced Zy-Ex and has an attractive wood grain texture
The Kudu is amazingly lightweight, versatile and functional
The blade is 4-1/4-inch Overall dimensions 10", 2MM thick. Weights 2.4 oz.
For safety, the Kudu¿ has been thoroughly. The locking mechanism will hold the blade rigidly

I recommend purchasing the Cold Steel Kudu at Amazon or BladeHQ. Thanks for reading.

ESEE-4 Review

by Chad McBroom 18 Comments

If you are a fan of Randall’s Adventure Training®, then you are probably somewhat familiar with their influence in the knife world. Operating under the parent company TransEquatorial Solutions, Inc., which is co-owned by Jeff Randall and Mike Perrin, Randall’s Adventure Training was started in 1997 as a school to train military, law enforcement, and civilians in the art of jungle survival. After identifying the need for some knife designs that better suited their requirements, they began developing their own knife designs.

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Their first design, the RTAK, was built by Newt Livesay of Wicked Knife Company. In order to mass produce the RTAK, they signed a 5-year licensing contract with Ontario Knives who also later produced the RAT series. In an attempt to “build a higher quality line of knives outside of the mass production capabilities of Ontario,” Randall and Perrin began a company called RAT Cutlery to produce mid-tech versions of their popular knife designs. The company was later renamed ESEE® Knives to avoid confusion with the Ontario RAT line of knives which are still endorsed by Randall’s Adventure Training.

The ESEE-4 is the “wilderness” model of the ESEE-3. It features a longer and thicker blade than the 3, and sits comfortably (and predictably) between the ESEE-3 and ESEE-5 in the ESEE lineup. The 4 is designed to be a more robust camp and woods knife than the 3, but isn’t as heavy duty as the 5.

I bought my first ESEE-4 about five years ago and have acquired several more since then. I carried an ESEE-4 daily for the past several years as part of my personal kit in a profession that requires the frequent use of a dependable knife. It only makes sense that I would jump at the opportunity to write a review on this fine blade.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The ESEE-4 has an overall length of 9″, a 4.5″ blade (4.1” cutting surface), weighs 7.45 ounces, and is made in the USA. This is a .188” thick full-tang knife that has a flat-ground, drop point blade made from 1095 high carbon steel (55-57rc). The blade features a large choil that make sharpening and reconditioning the cutting edge much easier that a blade with a small or nonexistent choil.

The geometry of the ESEE-4 drop point design makes it an excellent all-purpose knife. The large belly area makes it perfect for slicing. The lowered point in relation to the spine (hence the term “drop point”) dissipates energy as the cutting stroke approaches the point. This gives the user more control over the tip, which is very important during skinning and other survival tasks. The drop point also adds strength to the tip, and the thicker flat spine makes this knife excellent for batoning. The one disadvantage of the drop point design is that it is not as suitable for piercing as a spear point, tanto, or some other designs, but every blade design has its strengths and weaknesses.

High carbon steels like 1095 are ideal for bushcraft/survival knives like this one. While these metal compositions are prone to rust if not properly cared for, their high carbon content make them easy to sharpen in the field. For a defensive blade, super steels like CPM S35VN and S30V are great because you can sharpen them in a controlled environment with high-tech sharpening systems like the Wicked Edge or Work Sharp; however, when you are in a survival situation and your knife is your lifeline, you want something that you can sharpen on whatever hard, abrasive surface might be available. Although ESEE powder-coats the knife, keeping the blade dry (especially the edge) and lightly lubricated with a rust inhibitor like TUF-GLIDE will prevent the ESEE-4 from staining or rusting.

Editor’s note: ESEE recently released a version of the 4 with an uncoated 440C stainless steel blade. 440C is a hearty steel and probably a good choice for a outdoor focused fixed blade like the ESEE-4 if you are looking for something stainless. In addition to being more stain resistant, the uncoated version will slice better than the 1095 version of the ESEE-4, as ESEE’s powder coat is thick and textured. The trade off is that 440C is not as tough as 1095, and for that reason you lose ESEE’s lifetime warranty with the 440C version.

It would be cool to see ESEE offer this knife in 3V, which would theoretically give you the best of both worlds, but my guess is a 3V knife would add another $100 to the price tag.

Handle and Ergonomics

ESEE knives have a reputation for their handle ergonomics and the ESEE-4 is no exception. If you are acquainted with the ESEE-3, then you already know the ESEE-4 handle, because it is the exact same handle minus the additional 0.063” difference in metal thickness of the ESEE-4 over the ESEE-3. This is a simple and time-tested handle design.

The ESEE-4 handle fits very well in the hand and the linen Micarta handle scales provide a positive gripping surface dry or wet. When you really need to choke up on the knife for some fine blade manipulation, the large choil serves as an additional finger groove. The spine jimping offers an additional level of control for thumb-supported cutting and extends far enough forward that it can be used in conjunction with the finger-sized choil.

Sheath

The ESEE-4 comes with a friction-fit molded sheath that locks the knife very securely in place and has an attachment clip plate that can be mounted on either side of the sheath. This is an improvement over their original Kydex sheath that came with my first ESEE-4. Not that there is anything wrong with Kydex, but injection molding is a much more expensive process and the plastic does hold up to extremely hot temperatures better than Kydex, which is a plus if you live in the southwest and wish to keep a knife inside your car during the summer.

A length of 550 cord and a cord lock is also included with the knife. This cord may be used as a lanyard, or for lashing the sheath to a belt or pack. A quick shoelace-style threading of the cord through the eyelets of the sheath makes an excellent attachment point that can be locked down with the cord lock. There is also a MOLLE backing available (purchased separately) that can be worn as a drop leg sheath or attached to MOLLE gear.

ESEE-4 Review – Final Thoughts

I have spent many nights curled up next to a campfire with an ESEE-4 in hand. This is without a doubt my favorite field knife, which has been used for making fuzz sticks, shaving tinder, cutting branches and rope, batoning wood, field dressing game, and a slew of other tasks, and has required very little maintenance. It is the simplicity of the design that makes it so desirable and user friendly. If you are looking for a reasonably sized, all-around outdoor knife, then I can’t recommend the ESEE-4 enough.

ESEE® offers a no questions asked lifetime warranty on all of their 1095 carbon steel knives. If it breaks, they will replace it. There are also a large number of Chinese knockoffs floating around on the internet, so do your homework before you buy.

ESEE Knives, 4, Sharpened Clip Point Plain Edge, Coyote Brown Sheath, Clip Plate

Blade Length: 4. 50"
Cutting Edge: 4. 06"
Blade Material: 1095 Carbon Steel

Editor: If you are thinking of buying an ESEE-4, please consider purchasing it at Amazon or BladeHQ. By purchasing things through any of the links on this website you support BladeReviews.com, keep the website free of annoying banner ads, and help produce future reviews. Thank you very much.

Work Sharp Blade Grinding Attachment Review

by Chad McBroom 9 Comments

A while back, I wrote a review of the Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition electric sharpener. I was very impressed with the performance of WKSTS-KO, even after much reservation. What really drew my attention to the Ken Onion Edition, however, were the additional features and upgrades available for that system, in particular the Blade Grinding Attachment. As a recent student of forging and knife-making, I was fascinated with the idea of a compact, portable sharpening system that functioned in a manner similar to the large-scale knife grinders used in custom knife shops. It only made sense that I should investigate the full potential of this system and write this follow-up review.

Buy the Work Sharp Blade Grinding Attachment at BladeHQ

Buy on Amazon

What You Get

The Blade Grinding Attachment is constructed using cast metal and engineered polymer components. The attachment comes equipped with a Bench Mounting Tab, Adjustable Angle Indicator ranging from 10 to 35 degrees, Angle Adjustment Lever and Selection Clamp, Short and Long Distance Pulley Centers, Reference Plate, Belt Tensioner, 90° Grind Plate, and five 1” x 18” abrasive belts (Extra Course, Coarse, Medium, Fine, and Extra Fine). The Blade Grinding Attachment also comes packaged with a detailed user’s guide which illustrates installation, set up, and recommended sharpening techniques.

Use

The Blade Grinding Attachment is quick and easy to install on the Ken Onion Edition by simply aligning the chassis to the keyed “on/off” position with the power platform and then rotating into the “sharpening position.” Install the hub fastener onto the drive shaft by turning it in a counter-clockwise direction and the unit is ready for set up based on the desired task and sharpening angle.

To set up the tool, begin by selecting either a long or short distance center location for the adjustable pulley based on your personal preference. These center locations change the distance between the two pulleys where sharpening is conducted. The short center is intended for straight blades and produces a flatter grind, and the long center is intended for curved blades and produces a more convex grind. The change in the grind is a result of the amount of slack in the belt between the pulleys. I like a convex edge for most applications, so I just keep the pulleys set at the long center location.

Next, set the tensioner into the locked position and select the desired sharpening angle by moving the angle adjustment lever to align the angle indicator with the proper angle setting. Tighten the angle selection clamp knob to secure the angle. Choose and mount an abrasive belt based on the task at hand. (The user’s guide gives a detailed breakdown of each belt grit and their uses, which range from blade repair and grinding to stropping.) The belt is easily installed by placing it around the hub fastener, pulleys, and tensioner. The tensioner is released once the belt is in place.

Prior to sharpening, check to ensure the belt is tracking properly. The belt should be centered on the pulleys as it rotates. To test the belt, turn the power on to medium speed and press the switch lockout button and adjust the tracking knob until the belt is in the proper location.

Now you are ready to begin sharpening. Use the reference plate to establish your 90° baseline by placing the spine of the blade flat onto the plate. Keeping the blade at that 90 degrees, move it up to the belt surface between the two pulleys. Place the heel of the blade edge onto the belt surface using very light pressure (the belt should only deflect about 1/16th of inch). Move the blade across the abrasive belt at a rate of 1 inch per second, following the contour of the blade, until the tip reaches the middle of the belt. Pull the blade away and repeat the process until you have raised a burr along the entire edge, counting the strokes as you go. Flip the blade around and perform the same number of strokes on the opposite side. Continue up the grit scale until your desired sharpness has been achieved.

Testing

After running several cheap blades through the Blade Grinding Attachment, and getting a good feel for the operation of the system, I decided I would really put the “grinding” function of the attachment to the test. I pulled out my Steel Will Censor 1310, which has a spear point with a false edge on top. I’m a big fan of double-edge knives and always wished my 1310 had a top edge.

I installed the extra coarse P120 grit belt on the belt grinder and went to work. After several minutes of grinding, shaping, sharpening, honing, and stropping with the various belts, I had the double-edged Censor I always wanted, with a top edge that looked like it came from the factory. The blade grinding attachment did its job well beyond my expectations.

A couple of sharpening tips for using the Blade Grinding Attachment that I learned through my own experience:

Covering portions of the blade with masking tape, especially the areas close to the heel of the edge, will protect those areas from scratching during sharpening.
Keep a small bucket of water close by if you are going to be doing heavy grinding, so you can cool the steel and avoid removing the tempering.
Conduct your sharpening, honing, and stropping at slower to medium speeds. Stropping at a slower speed will produce a mirror finish if you progress up the grits properly.
There are some after-market leather stropping belts available, but after testing those out I found that the 12,000 grit, extra fine belt that comes with the attachment produces the best results.

Work Sharp Blade Grinding Attachment — Final Thoughts

I was pleasantly pleased with the Ken Onion Edition, as expressed in my review of that unit, but after using the Blade Grinding Attachment, I am sold on this sharpening system. I love the amount of control I have over my sharpening and the consistent convex edge I am able to produce on everything from kitchen knives to machetes. This attachment turns a good sharpening system into a phenomenal one. Knife makers and knife enthusiasts will love the Ken Onion Edition with the Blade Grinding Attachment. In fact, I recently recommended this system to a large custom knife shop looking for a precision sharpener for finishing their blades.

If you are looking for the most versatile, user-friendly sharpening system on the planet, I believe the Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition with Blade Grinding Attachment is what you are looking for. Now if you will excuse me, I need to find some more sharp objects to sharpen.

Work Sharp WSSAKO81112 Blade Grinder Attachment for Ken Onion Edition Knife and Tool Sharpener

Attachment only, requires the Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition Sharpener for Use
This 4 pulley attachment is adjustable to sharpen knives and tools from 10 Degree to 35 Degree and includes fiveer (5) 1" x 18" engineered abrasive belts in a wide range of grits
This attachment is similar to what blade makers use. Provides a wide range of adjustability, you can custom shape, sharpen and hone your blades at home
The belt speed is adjustable from 1200 SFM to 2800 SFM to accommodate a wide range of sharpening and honing tasks
The Blade Grinder attachment provides a full selection of 1" x 18" abrasive grit belts and also accepts an optional high density cotton belt for power stropping

If you are considering buying a Work Sharp Blade Grinding Attachment, I recommend purchasing it at Amazon or BladeHQ. By purchasing things through any of the links on this website you support BladeReviews.com, and help produce future reviews. Thank you very much.