micarta

Demko Knives AD-15 MG Review

There are knives that elicit feelings of elegance and delicate class, and then there are knives that make you feel like you’re carrying a tool that can handle damn near any task that you throw at it. Demko Knives belong solidly in the latter camp.

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For those of you that are hearing the name Demko and it’s sounding familiar Andrew Demko is the designer of Cold Steel’s famed Tri-ad Lock as well as some of their (in my opinion) coolest designs. Demko has also maintained his own custom knife shop, producing well built heavy-use folders that kept that distinct look that made his name famous among knife aficionados.

Based on my experience knives from Demko’s shop directly were a little difficult to come by when I first started getting into custom pieces. I’m not sure if that due to his work with Cold Steel, or maybe just the circles I ran in… but recently Andrew did two things that changed this. First he developed a new lock, the scorpion lock, that is not available from Cold Steel and secondly, he developed his Machine Ground (MG) series.

I would probably call his MG series mid-techs, although from what I have heard the only difference between Demko customs and the MG’s is the actual grinding of the blades themselves. Obviously his customs are hand ground, while the MGs are machine ground. More on that later.

First, the ever important specs of our Demko Knives AD-15 MG, the subject of this review:

Blade Length: 3.75”
Overall Length: 8.625”
Handle Thickness: .59”
Blade Thickness: .196”
Steel: S35VN
Weight: 6.4oz
Lock: Demko Scorpion Lock
Country of Origin: USA

(Please note these measurements are according to my ruler and calipers. The manufacturer’s listed measurements may vary.)

Blade Details

So, as I stated in the intro these knives are part of the “MG” series that the Demko shop is now putting out. I think the overall idea is to get some of their knives into customer’s hands without having to have the custom price-tag attached. In order to cut down on the cost, they have opted to put Machine Ground blades in these AD-15s. Apart from that I think there are minimal cosmetic differences between these and the customs.

So what does this mean for the end user? Well, nothing really. The knife is evenly ground, with crisp lines and a thin flat grind, and it is finished extremely well. For the run that was available at Blade Show, where I bought this knife, they had actually gone back and put a machine-satin or grind-line finish on the blade. This is generally my preference in a blade finish.

All that said, the knife came to me horrifyingly sharp, and I say this as someone that can sharpen a knife to a mirror–hair whittling edge. The Demkos did something to make this knife glide through paper like nothing I’ve seen. What makes this even more remarkable is the blade is made from 4.5mm thick stock. That is thick stock for a folding knife.

The steel choice is worth noting as well. S35VN is a weird pick for a knife that I’d consider a “heavy-use knife.” Don’t get me wrong as S35VN is generally a fine steel. I have it in my Chris Reeve knives and it’s performed great for me, but I would have expected 3V or M4 in this monster. Gimme something with some real brawn, Demko!

I suppose the choice of S35VN isn’t really a problem, as S35VN is still a premium steel with a well deserved reputation for all-round performance. It was just a surprising choice to me as this knife is otherwise entirely overbuilt. I think a tougher steel with a greater reputation for hard use would have been even better under these circumstances.

Handle, Ergonomics, and Pocket Clip

To address the elephant in the room before we talk about anything else, the AD-15 MG is a big knife. I mean the thing is over eight and a half inches long. However, as a result Demko was able to figure out how to incorporate a very effective saber-style handle to the knife. This allows you to grab onto it and know that you’re not going to slip anywhere, and to add additional traction most of these knives are offered in textured G-10 or Micarta for even more grip.

As for the handle material itself, it’s okay. Don’t tell anyone I said this, but I kinda wish I had gotten a G-10 version. The natural micarta has a raw edge that has turned out to not really be my favorite. His G10 knives were very nicely squared away, I’d love to see one in CF.

The Demko’s are also now offering these knives in full Ti handles. This was debuted at Blade 2018. In my opinion full titanium is a lousy “upgrade” as it adds nearly $200 to the price tag and a lot of extra weight, but the full titanium version offers no additional operational strength.

The clip is a ho-hum spoon style three screw clip that straddles the lanyard hole. This placement makes the knife ride a bit high in the pocket. I love and hate this high clip placement. On one hand, it allows you to have a really positive grip on this (expensive) knife in your pocket when you withdraw it, but the knife is also is going to dig into your side when you sit down. So this clip configuration has its pros and cons.

Deployment and Lockup

Dudes, this lock is super weird. Like, I get it, and I like it, but it took me a solid 2-3 days of playing with it where I stopped nearly cutting myself when I tried opening it. The knife is not that different from the famed Tri-ad lock that Demko licensed to Cold Steel. It’s essentially a titanium bar that runs across the top of the knife, that bar pivots around a pin towards the rear, when doing so it lifts the locking pin and allows you to close the knife. That same spring tension also serves as the “detent.” As a result, you sorta have to push away from the pivot when you open the knife otherwise it won’t budge.

As I said, it’s a different but ultimately intuitive way of opening a knife. Another result of this lock is that the action of the knife has a very hydraulic feel to it. It’s smooth, but slow. As if you were pushing the blade open through soft butter. This isn’t a knife that you’re gonna “pop” open with your thumb. The AD-15 MG’s run on poly washers, so that contributes to the slow hydraulic feel of the action.

Demko Knives AD-15 MG Review – Final Thoughts

How do you pin a bow on a knife this unusual? It’s a new style of mid-tech, with a new locking system, in a different size category than I normally buy. I never condone knife abuse, but the AD-15 seriously feels like a knife that could do pretty much anything and go pretty much anywhere. Need to stab through a car hood? No problem. This AD-15 MG is an absolute tank, and in that capacity this knife is phenomenal.

With a different steel I think the AD-15 MG’s would be perfect. S35VN is fine for a Sebenza, but for an overbuilt folder like this I’d love to see the jump to an even tougher steel like 3V. I believe that Demko has used different steels on the hand ground versions, so perhaps that will trickle down to the MGs eventually.

Also, these knives aren’t cheap. The base model (with G10 or Micarta) comes in around $675 and is readily available on BladeHQ or even Amazon. This AD-15 MG is a lot of money, but you’re essentially getting a custom Demko that has a blade that went through a double disk grinder. Practically speaking it’s very similar to what they’d call a “custom knife.” The hand ground version of this knife starts at $900, and if that’s if you can find one.

For these reasons, I recommend the Demko Knives AD-15 MG if you want a hard use folder from Andrew Demko without spending the cash on one of his full customs.

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Editor: I recommend purchasing the Demko Knives AD-15 MG at Amazon or BladeHQ. Please consider that buying anything through any of the links on this website helps support BladeReviews.com, and keeps the site going. As always, any and all support is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

Great Eastern Cutlery #71 Bullnose Review

by Benjamin Schwartz 3 Comments

Traditional knives are like genre fiction: they’re expected to follow certain tropes. These conventions are more restrictive than those we impose when we say things like ‘tactical knife’ or ‘EDC knife,’ maybe because they’ve been cultivated over a longer period of time. However, as with a fantasy or horror novel, it’s possible for a traditional knife to transcend its label and achieve greatness, whether it’s working outside of its associated tropes or within them. When a traditional becomes great outside its tropes you get things like the Spyderco Roadie. When it achieves greatness within them, you get Great Eastern Cutlery.

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GEC makes traditional knives, not as they actually were back in the day, but as we fondly remember them to be (or are told to remember them). Operating out of historic Titusville, PA, GEC turns out batches of knives ritualistically grabbed up by collectors and enthusiasts eager to own these tangible remembrances of a perceived better time.

But GEC doesn’t just peddle nostalgia porn. They make truly great knives, with fantastic fit and finish, in a variety of materials both man-made and (sadly) natural. And among patterns both original and obscure, GEC also puts out classic styles, often with some slight tweaks to them. Such is the #71 Bullnose, which is GEC’s gentle revision of the Sodbuster pattern.

I picked up a Bullnose in 2017. GEC produces their knives in batches, and the latest run of Bullnoses has hit the market. Should you buy one?

General Dimensions and Blade Details

GEC’s Bullnose has a blade length of 3.1 inches, a handle length of 3.8 inches, and a weight of 2.4 oz. It is made in the United States.

This take on Sodbuster doesn’t exactly reinvent the wheel, but you get a few little perks not seen on most Sodbusters: a wider butt end, and a big lanyard hole. The Bullnose hovers pleasantly in that arena of decent-sized knives that still maintain high pocketability. It can tackle most any cutting chore and yet drops into a pocket without a second thought.

Superlative fit and finish is a hallmark of a GEC knife. These are lovingly crafted knives, pleasures simply to hold. I’ve had some very nice GECs including two different Tom’s Choice Barlows, and they’ve all been beautifully finished, but my Bullnose is the nicest of the lot. The layers are airtight, the corners chamfered, the blade centered. The swedges are somewhat uneven, but I haven’t seen any outfit get something like that consistently perfect. Basically it’s all good, no matter which way you turn it or where you look.

Presumably we get the name ‘Bullnose’ from the blade shape: a drop point, but with a squat front end, squashed in like the face of a pug. I suppose the idea is to add some meat to the tip without compromising piercing power, and it mostly succeeds in that. The Bullnose isn’t exactly a needle point but it punches through material easy enough. Another effect of the blade shape is to reduce the belly to a compressed section just below the tip, meaning that most of the working edge is a straight line. Not a bad thing, and when I needed the extra cutting muscle of a belly I angled the knife so that portion was pushing down into the material and went to town.

1095 steel is one of the traditional knife tropes. It’s a carbon steel, so you have rust to worry about – but you know that going in so I’m not going to fault it for that. Once you get a patina forming, the blade turns a smoky, cloudy gray and receives a noticeable boost in corrosion resistance. It holds an edge well if you’re cutting softish things like thread or food, but on rougher media like cardboard, edge retention isn’t going to be phenomenal.

Simply put, 1095 is mediocre. Not bad, but not great – not even merely good. GEC used to implement 440C on some of their blades and I would like to see that on the Bullnose, at least as an option for those who want it. If the Bullnose is sincerely meant as a working knife, I think the rust resistance and boosted edge retention would be worthwhile.

On a side note: I think I’m alone in this, but this is my fourth GEC and I’ve always found their 1095 exceptionally difficult to sharpen. Like, harder to get sharp than VG-10. From what I understand they run the steel a little harder than normal, and maybe this, combined with the thin edge geometry on these traditional blades, stymies my sharpening skills. But it’s definitely another black mark against the steel choice.

A Brief Digression into Warranty Stuff

You may be able to tell from my pictures, but there’s a nick in the blade of my Bullnose. Turns out that the blade was smacking against a portion of the backspring in the channel, where it rises to accommodate the pin that keeps it in place. Basically, it folded over a bit of the cutting edge.

Once I figured this out, I sent the Bullnose to GEC, and they called me when they received it with a diagnosis. They said they could fix it, but because they don’t have a dedicated warranty department the turnaround wasn’t going to be lightning quick. A few weeks later, I got it back, and it seems like they fixed it, seemingly by sharpening the blade itself down a bit – not an elegant solution. The fold wasn’t completely sharpened out, just enough to stop it from happening anymore.

All of this isn’t to hate on GEC’s warranty work. Given the nature of how they operate, the full fat warranty departments of the big production companies isn’t feasible. But just be warned that if you have an issue, the resolution of that issue is going to be a little more homespun than what you’d get with LifeSharp, for example.

Handle, Ergonomics, and Carry

The Bullnose’s handle starts with a sizable butt end that tapers into a narrow, square neck. The finger side of the handle describes a gentle arc from tail to tip, with a flattened region just below the pivot where your index finger goes in a natural grip.

That’s a lot of words to describe what, in practice, is about as simple a handle as you can get – and the simplicity works. I was worried the beak would bite into my largish hands, but there’s enough room so that it keeps my hand in place without digging into it.

GEC releases its models in a gaggle of different handle materials, so the ‘grippiness’ of your particular choice may vary from my own. I chose the natural canvas Micarta which, despite its burlapy appearance, is pretty smooth – there’s just a hint of traction, more than enough for my uses, but you can probably find grippier options in the lineup. Something that may not be clear in pictures is that the Bullnose is a thick knife: the handle is half an inch wide. Wideness doesn’t always equate to comfort, but in this case it does. All work knives should be comfortable and the Bullnose handily makes the grade.

I lavished many words on the Bullnose’s simple handle, so I’ll be more concise in describing how it carries: perfectly well. Drop it in your pocket of choice and forget about it.

Deployment and Lockup

We’re back into trope land here – nail mark, two-hand deployment; you know the drill. I don’t really get nail marks. And I don’t mean that I find them outdated. For me, they just don’t work well. Is there any knife where sliding your stubby, frangible nail into a shallow divot is easier than just pinching the blade and pulling?

Well, I guess you can deploy the Bullnose either way without undue fuss. Pull is a stiffish 7, about perfect for a knife of this size and intent. I also appreciate the half stop. We’ve all had regular folding knives come down on our fingers when we close them negligently – but imagine the blade coming down with the force of a backspring behind it. Half stops are a safety feature that makes sense to me.

The strong backspring keeps the Bullnose’s blade open with surety, too. We associate the term ‘hard use’ irrevocably with locking knives, but the Bullnose feels like it could do rigorous chores without any danger of failure, as long as it’s used sensibly.

GEC #71 Bullnose Review – Final Thoughts

The Bullnose is without a doubt my favorite GEC knife. I don’t truck with multibladed traditionals, and while GEC makes quite a few single blade patterns, the Bullnose in particular enjoys a harmonious alchemy between size, utility, and (most importantly) affordability.

It checks all the GEC boxes – old school materials, delectable fit and finish, refined traditional patterns – without any specialized characteristics and extras, and it comes out in a large enough quantity that you can get one without having to queue up in a raffle or face a hardy gouging on the secondary market. You may end up getting more GECs after the Bullnose, but I don’t think you’ll ever find a better one.

GEC #71 Bullnose
From: KnivesShipFree

Editor: I recommend purchasing the GEC 71 Bullnose at BHQ or KnivesShipFree. Please consider that buying anything through any of the links on this website helps support BladeReviews.com, and keeps the site going. As always, any and all support is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

Benchmade Proper 319 Review

by Aaron Shapiro 1 Comment

Two or three years ago if you told me that Benchmade was your favorite knife company I’d roll my eyes and mutter something like, “Okay Griptillian dude…” now, that’s no disrespect to the Grip, those are great knives at a great price point, but they’re kinda vanilla for my tastes. That was Benchmade a few years ago.

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I’m not sure what happened over at Benchmade HQ but man are they putting out some absolute HEATERS in the last year or so. Starting with the Benchmade Proper slip joint (reviewed here) to the Benchmade Bugout and the full titanium integral Anthem 781.

Now, the slip joint thing is kinda interesting. Over the 2-3 year period, slip joints have begun to increase in popularity with the “tactical knife” folks. With the growth in popularity, it only makes sense that companies like Benchmade and Spyderco with the Roadie would begin to investigate the slip joint market.

Slipjoints are a very traditional style of knife designed so that a steel spring runs down the spine of the knife, the tension of that spring on the tang of the blade holds the knife open or closed. This design has been around for hundreds and hundreds of years so they’re really nothing new but I do believe that they are seeing a more widespread adoption in the last few years.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

Let’s get some specs before the review:

Blade Length: 2.75” (by my reckoning, BM puts it at 2.86”)
Overall Length: 6.625” (again by my ruler, BM states 6.69”)
Weight: 2.4oz (BM states 2.32oz)
Steel: CPM-S30V
Country of Manufacture: USA

Like most traditional folders, the Proper is an EDC knife through and through.

The Proper is available in two different blade shapes a sheep’s foot/wharncliffe type deal, and a clip point. At the risk of over simplifying the matter, I think that the clip point probably looks the best whereas the sheep’s foot is the most functional. I haven’t handled the clip personally, so take that with a grain of salt.

The sheep’s foot is exceptionally useful though, and is ideal for draw cuts when breaking down boxes, or slicing food. The blade stock is .09 thick steel and tapers to a nice .026 behind the edge. If you want to make it REAL crazy you can see if you can get a reground Krein version that is a literal lightsaber.

So how about the steel? S30V is a tried and true workhorse. Developed by Crucible with the help of legendary knife maker Chris Reeve, intended to hold a fine sharp edge for a long time, as well as having a very healthy amount of chromium making it extremely rust resistant.

In my experience, I find S30V to be a little chippy (in fact my Proper has a little chip out of the edge). Sharpening it is easy enough, and the edge does last a long time, to some extent S30V has become a little ho-hum in the realm of super steels. It’s still a performer though, and I do recommend it.

Handle and Ergonomics

The Proper, at the time of this review, is available in two handle materials. The first being red G10, and the second being the (more popular) green micarta. In terms of material I think they are equal, both G10 and micarta will stand up to a lot of wear and tear. They both offer a decent amount of grip traction for your hand in normal EDC use (what you’d use a slip joint for, no skinning wild boars or Hollywood-style knife fights).

The shape of the handle provides a great grip as well, with two very slight depending angles or you might call them quasi-choils on either end of the handle lock my pointer, middle, and ring fingers in place. The knife also has a bit of a badonkadonk, with a larger handle that extends past the downward angle of the choil, giving you an even more secure grip on the knife itself. That some extension also houses the lanyard hole.

I think all-in-all the knife is well designed for its intended use. This is not going to be a knife that you’re going to put through serious/hard work. A folding, non-locking, knife like this you’re going to perform pretty lightweight tasks.

Walk and Talk

So, the knife does not technically lock. It’s held in its various positions by the tension of the backspring. That being said, the Proper has a softer action than I’ve felt on other slip joints. Customs that I have had, or even GEC’s have very positive “walk and talks,” or the feeling and sound of the knife moving into its different positions.

I would prefer a positive action on the knife throughout, but when opened it doesn’t feel insecure.

Benchmade Proper Review – Final Thoughts

All things said and done, I think that the Benchmade Proper offers a lot to be had in terms of a modern/non-traditional slip joint. More interesting than that, however, I think seeing knives like this, the Spyderco Roadie, and even the Hinderer XM18 slippy hitting the marketplace shows an interesting trend when it comes to how people are choosing to spend their money.

If you had told me two years ago that I’d see a Hinderer slip joint or that Benchmade was making their own version of a non-locking folder I would have thought you were nuts, but here we are. I think the value is there, you’re going to spend nearly the same for a new Great Eastern Cutlery slippy, but you’re getting a modern design with a modern blade steel, versus GEC’s tried and true 1095.

If you’re not a slip joint guy, I think the Benchmade Proper is a great place to start. And if you’re already “in the fold,” then maybe it’s a good way to diversify your collection.

Sale

COLD STEEL AD-10 3.5" S35VN Steel Ultra-Sharp Drop Point Blade 5.25" G-10 Handle Tactical Folding Knife with Tri-Ad Locking Mechanism

CONSTRUCTION - The AD-10 tactical folding knife features an ultra-wide, ground thin at the edge, honed to razor-sharpness blade that offers unprecedented cutting, shearing, and piercing power while resisting bending, breaking, or chipping
S35VN STEEL BLADE - Crafted from S35VN steel, the AD-10 folding knife's blade ensures super-fine cutting edges and exceptional edge retention; This premium steel is renowned for its durability and ability to maintain sharpness through rigorous use
STRONG HANDLE - The handle of the AD-10 knife boasts heat-treated, full-length aluminum liners and 3D machined G-10 scales, providing unparalleled strength and grip; Its precise contouring and integral finger guard ensure a snug and secure fit in the hand
TRI-AD LOCK - Complete with the Tri-Ad, the AD-10 offers unrivaled strength, shock resistance, and durability; This reliable locking mechanism provides peace of mind, safeguarding your fingers during use and ensuring the blade remains securely in place
SPECS - Weight: 7 oz (198.4 g); Blade Thickness: 3.8 mm; Blade Length: 3 1/2"; Blade Steel: S35VN; Handle Length/Material: 5 1/4" G-10; Overall Length: 8 3/4"; Knife Type: Folder; Blade Shape: Drop Point; Locking Mechanism: Tri-Ad Lock

Editor: I recommend purchasing the Benchmade Proper at Amazon or BladeHQ. Please consider that buying anything through any of the links on this website helps support BladeReviews.com, and keeps the site going. As always, any and all support is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

Great Eastern Cutlery #66 “Calf Roper” Review

by Grayson Parker 19 Comments

I have a small confession to make. Though my articles may not reflect this, I have a crippling addiction to Great Eastern Cutlery knives. For every modern knife in my collection, there’s a traditional knife (often in matching or complimentary colors), and I fear it won’t be long before the old timers actually outnumber the fresh blood. The latest addition to my little menagerie is the Great Eastern Cutlery #66 “Calf Roper” in olive drab canvas micarta. It’s far from perfect, but at the same time it’s often the first traditional knife I reach for before leaving for work.

Buy the GEC Calf Roper at KniveShipFree

You may be asking yourself why I don’t review Great Eastern Cutlery products more often. The problem with reviewing their knives is twofold: one, they sell out quickly, and two, all of their knives are produced in batches. If a run of their knives is sold out, it may be years before they make another version; even if they do, there’s no guarantee that they’ll use the same blade configuration or handle materials. So before we get into the meat of the review, a word of advice: if you’re interested in it, go buy it. You can finish the review afterwards.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The Great Eastern Cutlery #66 “Calf Roper” weighs 2.57 ounces and measures at a hair under 3.5 inches in the closed position. This particular version of the #66 has three blades: a clip point blade 2.5 inches long, a sheepsfoot blade 1.9 inches long, and a spey blade 1.8 inches long. If the #66 had just a single blade and weighed this much, it’d just be average, but as it packs three blades into the frame it’s nothing short of fantastic.

Of course, if those blades never get used, they might as well not be there. The clip point is the easiest to justify: it’s popular on single and multi bladed traditional knives alike. It offers plenty of straight edge for push cuts, but has enough belly to be the all-star of a picnic lunch. Consider it your go-to blade for most tasks. The utility of the sheepsfoot blade is similarly obvious: a short, straight edged blade is perfect for opening packages and breaking down boxes. Really, the only inclusion that I haven’t found an explicit use for is the spey blade. It’s fine as a pen blade, but otherwise is just a holdover from days when animal husbandry and horticulture was more common.

I’m a junkie for thin grinds, and the Calf Roper delivers that in spades. All three blades start as thin stock and are brought down to a fine working edge. The grinds are clean and even, though the cutting bevel itself is pretty narrow. While I don’t have any complaints, apparently enough people do that there’s a robust market for reground GEC knives.

The #66 features 1095 steel on all three of its blades. 1095 has been a staple of American cutlery since the early 1900s, though now it’s seen primarily on traditional pocket knives and large fixed blades. It’s a carbon steel, so without care it will rust, but there are steps that can ward that eventuality off. You can clean the blade off after use and keep it well oiled; or (my preferred method), you can use your knife on a lot of fruit and produce and let it build up a protective patina.

Edge retention on the #66 is passable. Great Eastern runs their 1095 at a Rockwell hardness of 57-59, which is a bit harder than the steel on Victorinox (Swiss Army) knives. In practical terms, this means that any blade getting regular use should be touched up on a leather strop two or three times a week. If pressed into work cutting cardboard or other abrasive media, more care will be required.

Handle, Ergonomics, and Carry

The #66 “Calf Roper” is listed as a Serpentine Jack; to be honest, I’m not entirely sure why. Given the blade configuration, most companies would list the #66 as a Stockman variant. My suspicion is that A.G. Russell cornered the market on the “Serpentine Stockman” quite awhile ago…but that’s just speculation. Regardless of the nomenclature, the handle is pleasantly simple. It’s a simple cigar shape with a subtle curve. Nickel silver bolsters pair well with the brass liners, both of which are given a brushed finish. A plain oval shield ties it all together. As this is Great Eastern, it should go without saying, but the handle is immaculately constructed. Using my fingernail, I can hardly tell where the bolster ends and the micarta begins.

If you follow me on social media or have read past articles of mine, you might have guessed that I have a small fixation with micarta. It is – bar none – my favorite handle material. Why shouldn’t it be? It’s light, strong, grippy, and has an organic quality rarely found in G10. The olive drab micarta on the #66 is perfectly implemented, left just rough enough to have some texture, but still smooth enough to not feel out of place on a traditional knife. Of course, if micarta isn’t your thing, the #66 is also available in ebony, acrylic, stag, and two variants of jigged bone.

Sadly, the ergonomics aren’t as good as the handle would suggest. While the handle shape is great, the sheepsfoot blade adds a sharp hump right where your fingers go if you’re using the clip point or the spey blade. Neither of those blades causes a similar problem when the sheepsfoot blade is in use. It’s not a crippling issue; you’d have to be gripping the handle pretty tightly to generate real discomfort. All the same, I can’t help but wonder how much better the #66 would be if the spey blade was removed so the sheepsfoot blade could ride lower in the handle.

At a closed length of 3.5 inches, the #66 is one of the most pocketable knives produced by Great Eastern Cutlery. Between the serpentine handle shape, the generously chamfered edges, and the modest size, it’s easy to carry the #66 however you’d like. It’s a touch large for smaller coin pockets, but only just. I carry mine in a leather slip, as I do with most of my traditional knives. A slip distributes the weight more evenly, and prevents the knife from rolling to the bottom of your pocket and generating discomfort. Is it necessary? No, but I’d recommend giving one a shot if you haven’t already.

Deployment and Walk and Talk

There’s no two ways about it: compared to modern folding knives, any traditional knife is going to be less convenient to pull out and use. Before I can actually use my knife, I have to pull the slip out of my pocket, pull the knife out of the slip, put the slip down (or back in my pocket), and then use two hands to open whichever blade I need. In the office or around the house, those extra steps aren’t an issue. When I’m in the field, I want quick, convenient access to a blade that I know won’t close on my fingers if I torque it in a weird way. I still carry a traditional at work, but only so I have a knife on me that I know won’t frighten anyone.

There’s no grit in the action, and the blades snap crisply into place, whether in the open or closed position. None of the blades have any side-to-side play or worrisome wiggle. The pull on the clip blade is about as strong as it is on a Swiss Army Knife, while the spey and sheepsfoot blades only need about half as much effort to open and close. A half stop would be a welcome addition, but isn’t a necessity.

Great Eastern Cutlery #66 “Calf Roper” Review – Final Thoughts

Even accounting for the vestigial spey blade, the funky ergonomics, and the lack of a half stop, the Great Eastern Cutlery #66 is a personal favorite of mine. It’s handy, pocketable, and beautifully finished, with subtle touches of modernity that grant it a timeless appeal. The only competition that comes to mind is the aforementioned A.G. Russell Serpentine Stockman, but I don’t know if that comparison is entirely fair. The Serpentine Stockman is a fine knife – I owned one – but it’s larger and made with cheaper materials. Between the two, I’d pick the #66 every time.

If traditionals don’t interest you, I don’t know if this should be your first. Single bladed traditionals are often a better way to test the waters. That said, once this run is sold, it’s unclear when Great Eastern will produce another run of the #66. If you like the design, or even think you might like the design, pick one up. They’re easy to sell on the secondary market should you be disappointed. Clearly, I’m not.

GEC #66 Calf Roper – From $109.00
From: KnivesShipFree

I recommend purchasing the Calf Roper (and any of its derivatives) at KniveShipFree. Please consider that buying anything through any of the links on this website helps support BladeReviews.com, and keeps the site going. As always, any and all support is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

Spartan Blades Horkos Review

by Dan Jackson 3 Comments

Spartan Blades has a reputation of producing a premium product geared towards military applications. Founded by a duo of retired Special Forces operatives, I always considered Spartan Blades to have a unique position in the market. Their approach is simple: manufacture high end fixed blade combat knives in the USA out of premium materials.

Buy the Spartan Blades Horkos at BladeHQ

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The only other company that shares this approach and readily comes to mind is Chris Reeve, and CRK is best known for their folding knives. Spartan Blades has since branched out into high end folders, but I will always associate Spartan Blades with high end fixed blades.

And the Horkos is arguably Spartan Blade’s flagship fixed blade knife. It may not be the most expensive, but it strikes me as their most approachable model and emblematic of their lineup as a whole. This knife was apparently commissioned by the Combat Weapons Team of the United States Military Academy in West Point, NY and is given to graduates of their elite program. A review of a Spartan Blades knife is long overdue, and given its pedigree the Horkos almost begs for evaluation.

This knife was provided to me for review by Spartan Blades.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The Horkos has an overall length of 10-7/8″, a 5-11/16″ blade, and weighs 9 ounces. Like all Spartan Blades the Horkos is made in the USA. This is a combat / utility knife. Versatility is the name of the game with a combat knife. Obviously it needs to be capable in a defensive role, but most of the time the knife will be used for utility work. So it needs to be a practical knife, but still capable in a defensive role. I consider the Horkos to be an evolved Ka-Bar USMC knife.

Of course I’m a mild mannered suburbanite, so my experience with the Horkos has been purely as a utility knife. And thankfully the Horkos is a practical enough tool that I could effectively test it.

The Horkos sports a modified drop point blade with a dramatic harpoon tip. Spartan Blades has incorporated the harpoon tip on a number of their designs. It’s a nice aesthetic touch and lends a nod to the Spartan warriors that the company was named after. Beyond the harpoon tip you have a fairly typical partial flat grind and swedge. There is a little bit of belly, a nice strong tip, and plenty of cutting edge. The grinds on this knife are beautiful. In fact, all the machining is top notch. My favorite feature of the knife is that all the edges have been chamferred. This detail provides a premium feel and distinguishes the Horkos from all the other knives in my collection.

The Horkos is made from a single piece of S35VN steel. Although I have tested dozens of folders with S35VN blades before, this was my first experience with a fixed blade in S35VN. At 3/16″ (~4.75mm) thick, this is a substantial knife. I have come to appreciate S35VN in folding knives, but was unsure how it would hold up in a knife like the Horkos. After all, a blade of this size will need to hold up to the rigors of chopping, prying, and perhaps even batoning.

Spartan Blades offers the Horkos in a black DLC coating or a tan Zirconium Nitride (ZrN) coating shown here. Although the ZrN coating is described by Spartan as a “flat dark earth” color it seems to me more like a metallic brown gold. It has an almost etheral sheen to it. It’s subtle, but also totally different from something like a flat brown powder coat.

I was curious to see how this ZrN coating and the S35VN blade would hold up under use. I first used the knife on some cardboard. This is a thicker grind, and thick stock, but the keen edge cleaved through cardboard as you would expect it to. You will never mistake the Horkos for a kitchen knife, but it cuts cleanly and gets the job done. The coating and edge both held up fine.

I then worked with the Horkos on some seasoned oak logs that I keep for camp fires and grilling. The grind on this knife is pretty stout, but it handled the oak capably, shaving away the bark and and then peeling off thick curls of wood. I chopped quite a bit, performed some light batoning, and then moved to a large stump of grapefruit wood. Grapefruit is much softer than oak, but it allowed me to drive the tip of the Horkos deeply into the stump and test the tip strength. There was no edge deformation and the tip held up perfectly.

I have since used the Horkos on several other occasions. Mostly breaking down boxes and prepping wood for fires. It continues to be a capable tool.

The ZrN coating also held up well. There is some light surface scratching (perhaps from rubbing up against bits of sand on some of the wood), but the coating remained largely intact. It didn’t peel off like a teflon coating or flatten out like a powder coating. ZrN is a premium coating and I’d say it performs close to DLC. I also like how this coating does not bind up or effect the cutting ability of the knife.

I am keeping this knife for long term testing and will update the review as I gain more experience with this knife.

Handle and Ergonomics

The Horkos is a full tang knife overlayed with textured micarta handle scales. Once again everything has been thoughtfully designed and meticulously executed. I cannot find fault with the material selection or the fit and finish of this knife.

The scales on this knife have a large diamond pattern texture to it. I was concerned that this would make the knife uncomfortable to use. In fact the number of ergonomic features on this knife had me concerned: the beak of the pommel, the finger groove on the handle, and the saw cut jimping on the thumb ramp, and this aggressive diamond texture. I was pleasantly surprised to not develop any hot spots after extended use. While this won’t handle like a purpose built bushcraft knife, it still handles well. All the ergonomic features aided in the grip rather than getting in the way and I walked away from my testing sessions appreciating the Horkos more.

Sheath

The Horkos comes with your choice of a Kydex or Nylon sheath. My particular knife came with a nylon sheath in multi-cam. This is one of the most robust nylon sheathes I have owned. This is high denier nylon, triple stitched, molle capable, and threaded with paracord. The retention strip is adjustable and backed with velcro. This is a high quality sheath and strong departure from the bargain bin cloth sheathes you get with budget knives.

The plastic insert is lined with what appears to be the loop side of velcro. This gives the knife a secure friction fit, even if you don’t use the retention strap. There is a velcro lined belt loop at the top of the sheath, and a thick plastic D-ring at the bottom, so you can carry this knife in a number of different ways.

The kydex sheath is a $30 option and is probably worth the extra money, but I think as far as nylon sheathes go this is about as good as it gets.

Spartan Blades Horkos Review – Final Thoughts

The Horkos is an impressive combat knife. At over $300, this is a high-end product. The materials are top notch, every detail has been considered, and the knife performs. I think this is an instance where you get what you pay for. It’s overkill for a backyard bushwacker like myself, but if I needed to carry a combat knife on a daily basis I think the expense is easily justified. You certainly get something more for your money over a $100 knife.

I have enjoyed experimenting with a 10″ S35VN fixed blade. I continue to be impressed by the qualities of this steel. The combination of good edge retention and easy sharpening make it tough to beat. And I was also pleasantly surprised by the mild nature of the handle.

If I had to pick apart the Horkos, I think my approach would be more of a general commentary on combat knives. Combat knives ride that precarious line between utility and defensive use. It’s an exercise in compromise, and compromise by it’s very definition won’t leave everyone 100% happy. If you are looking for a pure utility knife to split wood all day I might suggest an axe or a Fallkniven A1. If you are looking for a straight up fighting knife, then the something like a ROSarms Kisten would probably be a better option.

But the Horkos still does a good job of riding that line between practical and tactical. There is no compromise in the materials, and the design is refined enough to get all manner of jobs done. If you need a tough, do it all utility / combat knife then you will be hard pressed to find a finer tool than the Spartan Blades Horkos.

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I recommend buying the Horkos at Amazon or BladeHQ. Please consider that purchasing anything through any of the links on this website helps support BladeReviews.com, and keeps the site going. As always, any and all support is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

Fantoni Hide Review

by Grayson Parker 3 Comments

Last Updated: August 11, 2019
Author’s Note: I wrote this introduction before I saw Dan’s review of the Pohl Force Mike One. Suffice to say that Andrew Gene has long been a scourge on the wallets of knife collectors.

Buy the Fantoni Hide at KnifeArt.com

It may be hard to imagine now, but it wasn’t so long ago that Italian knife companies were a fairly unknown quantity in the United States. Back then, I was introduced to the wide world of European blades by the fantastic videos of the Edge Observer. His review of the Fantoni Hide showcased this beautiful blade to me for the first time, and it wasn’t long before I was calculating how much of my collection I’d need to part with to acquire one. As luck would have it, I didn’t need to resort to such measures.

Normally when I’m trying to explain what draws me to a product, I can point to something tangible. In the case of the Viper Dan, it was the innovative slipjoint mechanism. The Zebralight H52w grabbed my attention with stellar runtimes. That’s really not the case here. I was drawn to the Fantoni Hide simply because I liked – loved, really – the way that it looked. The interplay between the overbuilt handle and the dagger-like blade, the industrial lines and the sweeping curves; all of it combined to grant the Hide a timeless feel not unlike an Al Mar.

I should note that I never expected to write this review. The Hide fell into my hands long before I was writing for Dan, and even after I started it was a bit too esoteric for the site. Fortunately, that’s no longer the case. This sudden shift leaves me in an awkward position. Though the Hide is a grail of mine, I’ve never babied it. It shows its age. For the most part, it has aged gracefully, but after nearly two years of carry it’s taken its licks. I hope this review doesn’t shy away from those bruises, in no small part because it costs 265.00USD. That’s officially enough to qualify as an heirloom knife – at least in my book.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The Fantoni Hide measures in at 6.89” overall, with a 2.98” blade, a 3.91” handle, is made in Italy, and designed by Italian knife designer Tommaso Rumici. It’s not chunky, but it’s not lightweight either, at 4.1 oz. The back lock and full steel liners are the culprits of most of the weight, and shift the balance to the back of the knife. Weight considerations aside, the Hide is right around the perfect size for me. My daily cutting tasks rarely require more than cutting some tape, opening a package, or slicing an apple. The Hide’s blade is long enough to do all of that without frightening a soul.

As with most Italian knives, the Hide is crafted to impeccable tolerances. The centering, perfect; the grind, immaculate. Even the hardware is polished, with the exception of the exterior bolts. Those were instead given a tasteful bead blast. The stonewash on the blade is highly polished, leaving a blade that will resist most scratches with ease. I’m a big fan of how polished this stonewash is, as it comes close enough to a mirror finish that it has some of the charm of a traditional.

The Hide’s true distinction is its refined blade. The profile is a lean drop point with the barest hint of a recurve and just enough belly to slice as well as any kitchen knife. A long swedge adds visual interest and thins out the tip for any piercing work that needs doing. The grind is similarly impressive. Not only did the craftsmen at Fantoni start with thin stock, but the hollow grind takes it down to an edge not far off from a straight razor. It goes without saying that the Hide isn’t meant for prying or other “hard use” tasks. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a tough knife. But it’s a knife, not a pry bar. Treat it as such.

I’d be lying if I said the steel was exciting. Most everyone these days is familiar with S30V, both its ups and downs. I haven’t noticed any problems with chipping or rust, and it rarely needs more than a few passes on my strop or Sharpmaker. Fantoni claims they get it up to RC60-61, and that matches my experience. Some of you may be asking if S30V is appropriate for a knife this expensive, and my answer is…kind of. In general I’d say no; but generally the heat treatment and grind aren’t nearly so dialed in as they are here. The Hide is among the elite cutters in my collection, so take that as you will.

Handle, Ergonomics, and Carry

The handle is a fairly simple affair. A steel spine is sandwiched between steel liners, which in turn is sandwiched between two slabs of green canvas micarta. There is no contouring, but the edges of the micarta have been chamfered to increase comfort. Micarta and steel are a winning recipe for me, but I understand if you think the materials are dated. If you’re that concerned, the Hide is also offered in carbon fiber and black G10, though I’ll always opt for the micarta. Not only is it the cheapest version, but a good deal of the Hide’s charm would be diminished with a sterile material like carbon fiber.

Discounting the double scallops on the interior of the handle, the Hide is comprised almost entirely of hard lines. Because of that, I assumed that the grip would (at best) be tolerable. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the ergonomics were fine; but as I expected, not without problems. First, the jimping is sharp and wide. Aesthetically pleasing, but not the most comfortable on the thumbs. Second, the pronounced finger guard keeps your fingers a fair distance away from the blade, so choking up for more control is almost impossible. I think this is just part of the genetic makeup of the Hide. It was designed to be a backup tactical knife, after all.

In the pocket, the Hide is -mostly- fantastic. The low-ride, tip up clip ensures discrete and stable carry. In my experience, the clip works well with most pants, but you may need to use a bit of force if you’re wearing thicker work clothes. When not in use, the slim profile helps the Hide disappear into the pocket, despite the relatively high weight. Sadly, the Hide has one flaw in this department: the thumb studs. Not only do they catch on clothing when you’re pulling the Hide out of your pocket, but they get thin enough to yank on any threads that stick out too far. It’s not a constant occurrence, but it’s happened just enough times that it bears mention.

Deployment and Lock-up

By now, I’m assuming that most of you are familiar with my viscerally apathetic sentiments towards frame locks, flippers, and every combination therein. They’re not bad, I’m just a curmudgeon. Or a hipster, depending on your definition. In either case, my love affair with the Fantoni Hide began long before flippers hit their stride, and it isn’t going anywhere now. Apart from the problems mentioned above, the thumb studs work fine. I’ve never disassembled the Hide, but a glance suggests that it runs on bronze washers. The strength of the back spring makes flicking this knife open impossible, but that’s a rare enough feature on quality back locks that I can’t complain.

The back lock isn’t particularly innovative, but it’s strong and easy to use. This iteration is one of the best. There is no play in any direction, and while the spring is quite stiff, it doesn’t make it a hassle to disengage the lock. I do find it somewhat confusing that this is advertised as a back-up knife. When the lock engages, it does so with an audible clack; I’d imagine that sound would make it quite difficult to hide. Ultimately, I can’t sell either the thumb studs or the back lock to those of you who hate such features. If you don’t mind them, you won’t be disappointed.

Fantoni Hide Review – Final Thoughts

If I had my druthers, I would have reviewed the Hide before I reviewed the Dan 2. Such an approach would highlight the evolution of Rumici’s talents as a designer, but wouldn’t paint the Hide in a negative light. To take that approach in the reverse, however, would end up making the Fantoni look quite brutish. Slab handles, or contoured? Proud liners, or nested? Thumb studs, or front flipper? Even I (unrepentant snob that I am) have to admit that the Dan is an improvement in most areas.

But the thing is….I own both. I carry both – frequently, in fact. Despite the fact that I have access to what is, objectively speaking, an upgraded model, the Hide gets as much if not more pocket time than the Dan 2. My best guess for this phenomenon is that while the Dan has a much more elegant design, the Hide feels more refined. Maybe I just need to carry the Dan for a few more years. At any rate, I think it says quite a bit about the quality of the Hide that it has stayed in my collection this long, with no signs of leaving.

So who should buy this knife, assuming that you can find one? If, like me, you’re a grump who thinks flippers are overhyped and frame locks passe, or if you long for the days of thin, slicy grinds, this knife is for you. Collectors of smaller, boutique Italian knives should likewise have their ears to the ground. Finally, if I’ve afflicted one of you with a similar lust for the Fantoni Hide, my apologies–but this knife is definitely for you.

I would recommend buying the Hide at KnifeArt, as they are Fantoni’s only US dealer. As usual, availability and selection is spotty, as Fantoni does not make many knives. You may be also able to find the Hide on the secondary market or places like Amazon or BladeHQ. Thanks for reading.