Recommended Survival Knives

Mora Companion Review

I’ll always be a folding knife guy at heart, but recently I’ve been on a fixed blade kick. I never thought they would appeal to me, but I’ve come to appreciate fixed blades of all shapes and sizes. And in a nice little fluke of symmetry, just as my appreciation of folding knives began with an affordable, European everyman’s knife, the fixed blade that opened my eyes is similarly affordable, European, and populist: the Mora Companion.

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The Mora Companion, and Mora in general, has a complicated reputation in the knife world. This complication stems from its intersection with the hardcore outdoorsman / survivalist / bushcrafter communities. Whether or not it was designed for the kind of applications these guys put it through is unclear (and Mora’s own literature on the subject is vague), but it has become a point of contention amongst enthusiasts, who tend to think it is an indispensable tool or a sham of a knife.

I approached this review with no significant outdoors experience, no previous Mora experiences, and no fixed blade preferences. The Companion thoroughly impressed me. I put this through an especially wide array of cutting chores and it never flagged, never failed to impress me. This is a beautifully simple tool. It was an impulse purchase for me, and the best one I have ever made.

(For the record, the model I reviewed is a standard Companion with the 12C27 stainless steel blade.)

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The Companion has a 4” blade, a 4.5” handle, and an overall length of about 8.5”. It comes with a plastic friction fit sheath. Combined, the knife and sheath weigh just about 4 oz. Like all Mora knives, the Companion is made in Mora, Sweden. The Companion is exactly the right size for the sort of general outdoor tasks you would call on it to do.

Mora has a near-perfect rendition of the drop point here. One thing that is hard to notice in photographs is the balance between straight and curved edge. It may not look like it, but the blade is divided, length-wise into equal portions of curved and straight edge. Some blades favor one or the other but here, the balance is exact. Whether you’re slicing, roll cutting, push – or pull-cutting, you’re going to have enough length of the edge you need for the job. Brilliant.

Steel is 12C27 – a great blade steel, especially at the price. There are plenty of proponents of the carbon steel Moras out there. I’m sure that the carbon steel is great, but I abhor rust and I abhor having to worry about my knives so I went with the stainless. It’s kept a little soft at 57-58 Rockwell, which is probably good given that it might be pressed into more demanding tasks.

The Scandi grind is a traditional element of Scandinavian knife culture, present and accounted for on the Companion. It’s a little reductive, but the way I think of a Scandi grind is as a sabre grind with an extremely small edge bevel. Scandi grinds are renowned for their woodworking ability, and my experience with the Companion reinforces this. This knife took huge, even bites out of a block of basswood. Beyond this, the general geometry of the edge made the knife excel at just about everything. I cut woods, thick plastic ties, paper, cardboard, and produce. The Companion went through everything with ease, and I never fought to push it through media until it was almost totally dull.

The first time I sharpened my Companion I just went along the tiny edge bevel and had great results, although I understand now this isn’t the traditional method. If you watch videos on how to sharpen a Scandi-ground knife, they tell you that the primary bevel sets your sharpening angle. This means that you should never have to reprofile a Scandi-ground knife, even after years of use. It also means that if you’re using something like a Sharpmaker you may have to configure it for freehand sharpening.

The second time I sharpened the Companion, I set it along the primary bevel as I was supposed to. It worked well, although I marred up the mirror finish on the knife a bit. I was using a dry diamond plate instead of a wet stone, so this may have had something to do with it.

Handle and Ergonomics

The Companion’s handle is made from plastic, with a TPE-like wrap around the center swell. It’s great, plain and simple. The palm swell is exactly my style, and there is just the slightest amount of Coke bottling to fill the hand. The downturn at the butt of the knife and the guard at the front are both gentle enough to preclude any issues of finger crowding. This is a great, task neutral handle.

Some designers overengineer their handles, with embellishments like finger grooves, parrot beaks, palm swells, different traction inserts for different parts of the handle, jimping, thumb ramps – eventually it just becomes too much. The Companion is wonderful in the hand without being overdesigned. I wouldn’t call it understated so much as simply stated: this is just a knife, plain and simple. The handle is here so you can use the thing, so go out and use it, however you want.

Sheath

The sheath is your standard plastic friction fit Mora affair. Although it didn’t move me to my core, I like this sheath. The plastic, while not as handsome as leather, doesn’t look any worse to my eye than nylon and is very lightweight and durable. There’s a drainage hole at the bottom to let out accumulated moisture, and I like that the belt clip doesn’t require me to take my belt off and loop it through. You simply pry it open far enough to slide over your belt, and you’re golden. It almost works like an oversized pocket clip.

Another small feature that I found surprisingly handy was the thumb ramp on the corner of the sheath. You can push off it with your thumb to disengage the Companion from the sheath with ease, and it helps index when you’re putting the knife away.

Mora Companion – Final Thoughts

I’ve gone this long in the review without addressing the Companion’s price, so I’d like to do so now.

A lot of people say or think that the Companion is a good knife for the price. I don’t believe in good knives for the price. There are good knives, and there are good values. You can pay too much for a good knife, but you can never say a bad knife is a good value.

I think that reviewers need to address the cost of all the products they review, because value – what you get for what you pay – is an intrinsic part of good design. It contextualizes design decisions. This is why we’re okay with AUS-8 on a $25 knife but less thrilled when we get it for $80 – it doesn’t make a knife a worse knife, but it makes it less well-designed, and thus less attractive as a possible purchase.

If I paid $75 for the Companion, I’d still tell you that it was a good knife, but I would take issue with design choices relative to its price, and it wouldn’t get a recommendation.

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Morakniv Companion Fixed Blade Outdoor Knife with Stainless Steel Blade, 4.1-Inch, Military Green

BUSHCRAFT KNIFE: The perfect all-in-one knife for outdoor enthusiasts, this outdoor knife makes an ideal camping knife, backpacking knife, fishing knife, hiking knife, or survival knife
PREMIUM BLADE: 0.08-inch thick hardened Sandvik 12C27 stainless steel knife blade stays sharp longer than carbon steel and is less prone to rust; Ideal for carving, food prep, and cutting tinder
HIGH-FRICTION HANDLE: Made with an ergonomic polymer handle with a soft friction grip and finger guard, this knife is safe and efficient for use in all weather conditions
PROTECTIVE POLYMER SHEATH: Easy-to-clean plastic sheath comes equipped with a belt clip, so you can easily attach your knife to a belt or rucksack
SPECIFICATIONS: Blade thickness: 0.08 inch (2.0 mm), blade length: 4.1 inches (104 mm), total length: 8.5 inch (217 mm), net weight with sheath: 3.9 ounces (110 g)

I recommend purchasing the Mora Companion at Amazon. Please consider that purchasing anything through any of the links on this website helps support BladeReviews.com, and keeps the site going. As always, any and all support is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

ESEE-4 Review

by Chad McBroom 18 Comments

If you are a fan of Randall’s Adventure Training®, then you are probably somewhat familiar with their influence in the knife world. Operating under the parent company TransEquatorial Solutions, Inc., which is co-owned by Jeff Randall and Mike Perrin, Randall’s Adventure Training was started in 1997 as a school to train military, law enforcement, and civilians in the art of jungle survival. After identifying the need for some knife designs that better suited their requirements, they began developing their own knife designs.

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Their first design, the RTAK, was built by Newt Livesay of Wicked Knife Company. In order to mass produce the RTAK, they signed a 5-year licensing contract with Ontario Knives who also later produced the RAT series. In an attempt to “build a higher quality line of knives outside of the mass production capabilities of Ontario,” Randall and Perrin began a company called RAT Cutlery to produce mid-tech versions of their popular knife designs. The company was later renamed ESEE® Knives to avoid confusion with the Ontario RAT line of knives which are still endorsed by Randall’s Adventure Training.

The ESEE-4 is the “wilderness” model of the ESEE-3. It features a longer and thicker blade than the 3, and sits comfortably (and predictably) between the ESEE-3 and ESEE-5 in the ESEE lineup. The 4 is designed to be a more robust camp and woods knife than the 3, but isn’t as heavy duty as the 5.

I bought my first ESEE-4 about five years ago and have acquired several more since then. I carried an ESEE-4 daily for the past several years as part of my personal kit in a profession that requires the frequent use of a dependable knife. It only makes sense that I would jump at the opportunity to write a review on this fine blade.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The ESEE-4 has an overall length of 9″, a 4.5″ blade (4.1” cutting surface), weighs 7.45 ounces, and is made in the USA. This is a .188” thick full-tang knife that has a flat-ground, drop point blade made from 1095 high carbon steel (55-57rc). The blade features a large choil that make sharpening and reconditioning the cutting edge much easier that a blade with a small or nonexistent choil.

The geometry of the ESEE-4 drop point design makes it an excellent all-purpose knife. The large belly area makes it perfect for slicing. The lowered point in relation to the spine (hence the term “drop point”) dissipates energy as the cutting stroke approaches the point. This gives the user more control over the tip, which is very important during skinning and other survival tasks. The drop point also adds strength to the tip, and the thicker flat spine makes this knife excellent for batoning. The one disadvantage of the drop point design is that it is not as suitable for piercing as a spear point, tanto, or some other designs, but every blade design has its strengths and weaknesses.

High carbon steels like 1095 are ideal for bushcraft/survival knives like this one. While these metal compositions are prone to rust if not properly cared for, their high carbon content make them easy to sharpen in the field. For a defensive blade, super steels like CPM S35VN and S30V are great because you can sharpen them in a controlled environment with high-tech sharpening systems like the Wicked Edge or Work Sharp; however, when you are in a survival situation and your knife is your lifeline, you want something that you can sharpen on whatever hard, abrasive surface might be available. Although ESEE powder-coats the knife, keeping the blade dry (especially the edge) and lightly lubricated with a rust inhibitor like TUF-GLIDE will prevent the ESEE-4 from staining or rusting.

Editor’s note: ESEE recently released a version of the 4 with an uncoated 440C stainless steel blade. 440C is a hearty steel and probably a good choice for a outdoor focused fixed blade like the ESEE-4 if you are looking for something stainless. In addition to being more stain resistant, the uncoated version will slice better than the 1095 version of the ESEE-4, as ESEE’s powder coat is thick and textured. The trade off is that 440C is not as tough as 1095, and for that reason you lose ESEE’s lifetime warranty with the 440C version.

It would be cool to see ESEE offer this knife in 3V, which would theoretically give you the best of both worlds, but my guess is a 3V knife would add another $100 to the price tag.

Handle and Ergonomics

ESEE knives have a reputation for their handle ergonomics and the ESEE-4 is no exception. If you are acquainted with the ESEE-3, then you already know the ESEE-4 handle, because it is the exact same handle minus the additional 0.063” difference in metal thickness of the ESEE-4 over the ESEE-3. This is a simple and time-tested handle design.

The ESEE-4 handle fits very well in the hand and the linen Micarta handle scales provide a positive gripping surface dry or wet. When you really need to choke up on the knife for some fine blade manipulation, the large choil serves as an additional finger groove. The spine jimping offers an additional level of control for thumb-supported cutting and extends far enough forward that it can be used in conjunction with the finger-sized choil.

Sheath

The ESEE-4 comes with a friction-fit molded sheath that locks the knife very securely in place and has an attachment clip plate that can be mounted on either side of the sheath. This is an improvement over their original Kydex sheath that came with my first ESEE-4. Not that there is anything wrong with Kydex, but injection molding is a much more expensive process and the plastic does hold up to extremely hot temperatures better than Kydex, which is a plus if you live in the southwest and wish to keep a knife inside your car during the summer.

A length of 550 cord and a cord lock is also included with the knife. This cord may be used as a lanyard, or for lashing the sheath to a belt or pack. A quick shoelace-style threading of the cord through the eyelets of the sheath makes an excellent attachment point that can be locked down with the cord lock. There is also a MOLLE backing available (purchased separately) that can be worn as a drop leg sheath or attached to MOLLE gear.

ESEE-4 Review – Final Thoughts

I have spent many nights curled up next to a campfire with an ESEE-4 in hand. This is without a doubt my favorite field knife, which has been used for making fuzz sticks, shaving tinder, cutting branches and rope, batoning wood, field dressing game, and a slew of other tasks, and has required very little maintenance. It is the simplicity of the design that makes it so desirable and user friendly. If you are looking for a reasonably sized, all-around outdoor knife, then I can’t recommend the ESEE-4 enough.

ESEE® offers a no questions asked lifetime warranty on all of their 1095 carbon steel knives. If it breaks, they will replace it. There are also a large number of Chinese knockoffs floating around on the internet, so do your homework before you buy.

Esee Knives, ESEE-4, Sharpened Clip Point Plain Edge, Coyote Brown Sheath, Clip Plate

Blade Length: 4. 50"
Cutting Edge: 4. 06"
Blade Material: 1095 Carbon Steel

Editor: If you are thinking of buying an ESEE-4, please consider purchasing it at Amazon or BladeHQ. By purchasing things through any of the links on this website you support BladeReviews.com, keep the website free of annoying banner ads, and help produce future reviews. Thank you very much.

Fallkniven F1 Review

by Dan Jackson 10 Comments

Last Updated: September 25, 2018
I am not sure if I have the patience for a compact survival knife. I tend to favor a brute force approach when working in the outdoors. Maybe I am lazy, or stupid… or lazy and stupid… but when in doubt I often find myself reaching for the biggest, heaviest tool I can find.

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That’s probably why I get such a kick out of knives like the Junglas and Ontario Machete. I get that heavy piece of steel in my hand and say, “Hey, I can probably chop down a tree with this thing,” and then proceed to blast whatever lies in my path. Hours later my shoulder is aching, my shirt is soaked through with sweat, but I still have a smile on my face. What I lack in technique I try to make up for with pure stubbornness. I have the same problem when I go fishing.

So I may not be the best guy to review the Fallkniven F1. It’s an elegant smallish fixed blade designed in Sweden, and made in Japan. The Scandinavians are folks who really seem to appreciate the great outdoors. The Japanese are extremely passionate about pretty much everything, and have an extraordinarily rich culture of blademaking. Both have a zen like approach to nature (and life) that I could never match.

I have previously reviewed the Fallkniven A1, and offhand the A1 seems to be more my speed. It’s not a big chopper, but it’s a meaty knife and a solid performer. The F1 is much smaller, and working with it has forced me to slow down for a moment, explore the possibility that less is more, and, god forbid, try to cultivate some technique when using my tools.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The F1 has an overall length of 8.3″, a 3.8″ blade, weighs 6 ounces, and is made in Japan. Fallkniven calls the F1 the Pilot’s Survival Knife, and this is the standard issue fixed blade for the Swedish Air Force. So this is a knife that presumably needs to be small enough to fit on your person while in the confines of a military aircraft, yet be effective enough for soldiers to rely on worst case scenarios like a downed airplane deep behind enemy lines. For us civilians this could be a camp knife, or a knife for hiking, hunting, and exploring the great outdoors.

Here is a shot of the F1 next to the S1 and A1. The F1 is of course on the bottom:

The blade of the F1 is a simple drop point with a full convex grind. The blade shape is simple. There are no organic shapes, no swedges, no jimping. Just traditional drop point awesomeness with your choice of a bright satin finish or a black CeraKoted blade. This is about as simple as it gets.

Blade thickness is a generous 4.5mm, and this combined with the full convex grind allows the F1 in some ways to function like a larger knife. I adore the convex grind. It can be used to pop open small pieces of wood, yet it cuts deeply into material and can be used for more detail oriented tasks.

The F1 features a laminated VG10 blade. Twin slabs of 420J stainless flank a VG10 core (also stainless). 420J is tougher than VG10, whereas VG10 is harder and better for edge retention than 420J. The idea is to combine 420J with the VG10 to make an overall tougher knife with the edge holding qualities of VG10.

Using VG10 for a survival knife is a hotly contested issue. I have found that VG10 is fine for little EDC knives like the Dragonfly 2, but if you troll the forums there is great debate as to whether it is an appropriate choice for an outdoor fixed blade.

Personally, I think that this is an instance where geometry makes the biggest difference. The convex edge gives the VG10 greater resilience and durability, and belies it softer qualities. Still, you need to be careful with this knife. If you are batoning with it, make sure you aren’t batoning on top of sand or a rock pile or something. Put a piece of wood underneath whatever you are trying to cut and understand that if the edge comes in contact with a rock, the edge will likely lose. With this strategy in mind, I have not had issues with the edge on any of my Fallkniven knives chipping out.

Here is another size comparison with the F1 next to the ESEE-3:

As far as edge retention is concerned, I have found that the VG10 blade holds up well to wood and meat. It doesn’t last as long when cutting fibrous materials like cardboard. Sharpening is very easy. I mostly strop the knife, and occasionally freehand the edge with a fine Sharpmaker stone. I know that the sandpaper and mousepad method is a popular way to sharpen a convex edge.

Fallkniven also offers this knife in their “3G” configuration. 3G is another 420J laminate with a core of Super Gold Powder Steel (SGPS), a high end powdered steel by Japanese manufacturer Takefu. They heat treat the SGPS to 62HRc. By way of contrast the VG10 version is taken up to 59HRc. The main benefit to the 3G version is it gives you greater edge retention. Apparently durability is about the same although I have no hands on experience with this version of the knife. The downside is that the 3G version retails for $100 more than the F1.

Personally, it was not worth the extra money to spring for the 3G version. If I used this knife every day I could see where the upgraded version has its appeal. I look forward to checking out the SGPS in depth when I eventually pick up a Fallkniven U2.

Handle and Ergonomics

The F1’s handle is made of Thermorun, a high density plastic. Thermorun has a slightly rubbery feel to it, and the handle all but completely encases the tang of the knife. About an 1/8″ of tang sticks out from the pommel, which can be used for hammering/crushing things. There is also a large sleeved lanyard hole that easily accommodates 550 cord. The handle has a strong diamond texture on the sides, while the top an bottom of the handle are left untextured.

All said construction of the handle is very simple and solid. I can’t detect any gaps in between where the handle and blade join together. There has been no cracking splitting has occurred after months of ownership and use. Like the rest of the knife, the handle has a very basic and utilitarian feel to it.

The F1 is a comfortable knife to use. The diamond texture helps lock your hand in place, and the broad flat spine is perfect for your thumb. The handle shape is simple and it will accommodate all sorts of hand sizes. There is no jimping. I mostly tested the F1 on wood, cardboard, and by trying it out with some light food prep. At all times I felt comfortable and in control of the knife. There were no issues with hot spots.

Sheath

The F1 comes with a plastic or leather sheath. Shown here is the leather sheath, although the plastic sheath is essentially a scaled down version of the sheath on my A1, so you can check that review out to get a little more information on Fallkniven’s zytel sheathes. The leather used for this sheath is thick, sturdy, and exudes quality. It’s a high quality no-nonsense sheath that has been finished simply. The belt loop is non-removable and the blade is held in place with a fold over button clasp. The blade doesn’t rattle or move around at all inside the leather sheath. It’s very secure and a nice option for people who prefer a more traditional belt sheath.

When I reviewed the A1 2 years ago I ragged on the plastic sheath a little. I felt like the sheath was a little flimsy, especially when paired with such a sturdy knife. The blade also rattled around in the sheath, which some people use as a metric to for sheath quality (this is kind of stupid when you think about it, although I’m guilty of pointing out whether the blade rattles in the sheath).

Opinions are subject to change and mine has evolved over the years. While Fallkniven’s plastic sheathes are lightweight, it doesn’t mean they aren’t of high quality. The plastic on my A1’s sheath has held up tremendously well and is very light and practical. Apparently it is a good choice for cold climates and will perform better than a leather or Kydex sheath in sub-freezing temperatures. Since I live in Florida I have been unable to really test that out.

Fallkniven F1 Review – Final Thoughts

You don’t have to be a level 10 bushcrafter to realize that this is a very nice knife. The F1 strikes a good balance of being lightweight and manageable yet high performance. The convex blade works miracles with wood, and the handle does a great job of not getting in the way. To me that is what makes an ideal working knife. It should not be a chore or an obstacle in your path – you should be able to actually use the thing. The F1, much like the A1 when I reviewed it, seems to invite use.

I may still favor the bigger knives for my outdoor exploits, but The F1 is an all around performer and a pleasure to work with. This is an excellent knife for camping or survival and has rightfully earned its reputation as a no-nonsense tool. It has also earned a spot on my recommended survival knives page, which is about as high of an endorsement as I can offer.

Fallkniven F1, Thermorun Handle, Plain, Zytel Sheath

8 1/4" overall.
3 3/4" laminate VG-10 stainless drop point blade with satin finish.
Black checkered Thermorun elastomer handle with visible tang end and lanyard hole.
Country of Origin: Sweden
Includes Black Zytel sheath.

I recommend purchasing the Fallkniven F1 at Amazon and BladeHQ. Please consider that purchasing anything through any of the links on this website helps support BladeReviews.com, and keeps the site going. As always, any and all support is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

Ka-Bar Becker BK-2 Review

by Dan Jackson 22 Comments

Last Updated: July 20, 2019

Down here in Florida we don’t get a lot of seasonality. For example, I wore shorts and flip flops on Christmas. But when the air starts to turn cool I get a hankering for 2 things: cigars and fixed blade knives. I am pleased to say I have been able to indulge in both this fall, and am ready to provide a review on a quintessential camp knife: the Becker BK-2.

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Built in the USA by Ka-Bar, and designed by Renaissance man Ethan Becker, the BK-2 has been widely accepted as a go to survival / camp knife for years now. I can’t tell you why I haven’t reviewed this classic fixed blade yet. There are many knives out there I’d love to review (one day I’ll even get to the classic USMC Ka-Bar) but just haven’t found the time for. Well, scratch the BK-2 off the list. This one has been tried and tested and I’m pleased to share some thoughts with you today.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The BK-2 has an overall length of 10-5/8″, a 5-1/4″ blade, and weighs 16 ounces. The BK-2 is a chunky knife. Pictures really don’t do it justice, as the proportions may suggest a smaller knife. I was pleasantly surprised by this, although if I were planning an ultra lightweight backpacking trek along the Appalachian trail I’d be less pleased. This strikes me as a tool for a camp site, truck, or your back yard – not something you will want to schlep for miles and miles on end.

Here is a size comparison with the ESEE-3:

The blade is a .25″ (6.35mm) thick slab of 1095 high carbon steel. For whatever reason when I ordered this knife I thought it might be interesting to compare it with my ESEE-3. It turned out to be a poor comparison, because next to my ESEE-3 the thickness of the blade is almost comical. The ESEE-3 might as well be made of aluminum foil when compared with the BK-2. Anyhow, the blade of the BK-2 is a classic drop point shape with a high flat grind and a sturdy tip. The knife has also been powdercoated. The powdercoating is heavily textured like on my ESEE blades. The coating will provide some rolling resistance when trying to cut deeply into things – at least until it gets smoothed down with use.

The BK-2 is interesting in that it can accomplish a lot of different tasks within its relatively small footprint. It’s good for batoning / splitting wood. I used it with great success to prepare a stack of wood for a couple bon fires. I was able to split logs with up to a 4″ diameter easily. You can do some carving with the knife, and I used the BK-2 to whittle up some shavings / tinder to start the fire, and to carve a few stakes for cooking.

Although it’s a little thick and clumsy in my hands for serious carving, I was able to get the job done. The BK-2 is also a decent chopper considering its size. This is a shorter knife, so naturally it won’t chop like an axe or a big fixed blade like the Junglas, but if you need to do limited chopping it will get the job done. Case in point, I needed to chunk up some large frozen sardines for a fish trap I was using – the BK-2 blew through those suckers. For these reasons the BK-2 is a natural choice for camp chores: building fires, prepping food, and odd jobs around a camp site where a sharp object might come in handy.

The only downside is that the BK-2 doesn’t particularly excel at anything. If you need a dedicated chopper, or an ultra fine carving knife, then you will want to look elsewhere. If you want a tough “do it all” knife, then the BK-2 could be a good choice.

As previously mentioned, the BK-2 comes in 1095 high carbon steel. I have wrote about this steel at length, especially over the course of reviewing an number of ESEE knives. 1095 is inexpensive and hearty. It’s easy to sharpen and holds a nice edge, especially when working with wood. It’s tough, but if you do chip it, you will be able to salvage the edge. 1095 is a good working steel, and I think it’s a great choice for this knife.

Handle and Ergonomics

The BK-2 features a spacious zytel (high density plastic) handle over it’s full steel tang. This is a very basic handle design, and it’s perfect for a workhorse knife like this. Ethan Becker apparently spent a lot of time getting this handle shape right, which is why you find it on his whole series of knives. The handle material is humble (although you can easily pick up a pair of micarta scales), but it’s lightweight, and very tough. The finish work on the handle is great. There are no sharp edges, and all of the hardware is sunk deeply into the handle. Rounding things out are an oversize lanyard hole and a generous exposed pommel that can be used for hammering / crushing things. This is a very clean and highly functional handle design. It has also been well executed.

From an ergonomic standpoint the handle of the BK2 feels as straightforward as it looks. This is a thick handle with a generous palm swell. There is plenty of room for larger hands and the absence of jimping / aggressive texture allows you to work with this tool for extended periods of time without blistering your thumb. Those wanting a little more grip could upgrade to micarta scales, or wrap the handle with athletic tape or a “ranger band” (a section of bicycle inner tube). I did not notice any hot spots while using this knife. This is a fantastic handle shape.

Sheath

The BK-2 comes complete with a plastic and nylon sheath. The sheath is simple, lightweight, and sturdy. It has excellent retention, yielding a very satisfying snapping sound when you shove the knife in place. There is no blade rattle at all, and I am not the least bit concerned about the blade ever falling out from the sheath. There is also a drain hole.

The nylon belt loop is simple and features a snap fastener for extra retention. It is fully removable with a Phillips head driver, and the plastic sheath is riveted together. The rivet holes and slots leave you with plenty of options for molle locks, tek-loks, paracord, and webbing. This is an outstanding sheath and it compliments the knife perfectly. Also, the snap fastener lies flat, so I have yet to cut into it when drawing the knife. The only creature comfort missing is that you need to take your belt off to feed it through the belt loop. I like being able to remove a belt sheath without having to take my belt off, but it’s not a deal breaker.

Becker BK-2 Review – Final Thoughts

The BK-2 is an impressive knife, especially when you consider that they are selling for right around $65.00. This is a lot of high quality tool for the money. The simplicity of the design, the quality of materials, and the extremely high level of fit and finish all make the BK-2 punch above its weight. Plus, it works. The stout geometry of the blade is excellent for processing wood, the handle is about as comfortable as they come, and the sheath is lightweight and functional. Finally, the knife itself is made in the USA (the sheath is made in Taiwan). I happen to like a USA made product, although it certainly isn’t a requirement for a favorable review.

All told, it is easy for me to see why the Ka-Bar Becker BK-2 has earned such a following and reputation. It’s simple and it works. If you are looking for an indestructible camp knife or a compact (but very stout) survival knife, then I highly recommend the BK-2.

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KA-BAR Becker BK2 Campanion Fixed Blade Knife, Carbon Steel

Full tang heavy duty field knife suited for camping chores.
Made in Olean New York, U.S.A
Designed by Ethan Becker
Manufactured by KA-BAR Knives Inc.
Comes with a hard shell black nylon sheath.

I recommend purchasing the BK-2 at Amazon.com or BladeHQ. Please consider that buying anything through any of the links on this website helps support BladeReviews.com, and keeps the site going. As always, any and all support is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

Fallkniven A1 Review

by Dan Jackson 26 Comments

Last Updated: September 22, 2018
When I was a child I had the experience of packing up and shipping off half way around the world. The destination was Sweden, and I couldn’t have been more than 5 years old. My family stayed in Stockholm for 3 months in the summer as part of my father’s work. I don’t remember much. Gray clouds, a day that never ended, red horses, the churning belly of an old wooden sailboat, blue and yellow. Three months of existence now just fleeting memories of a time and place.

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It would be unfair to pretend like I really know anything about this country yet old experiences still rise to the surface like a whale cresting on the Norwegian sea. But, deep down I feel like I have some connection to this country. Some shared history.

In many ways the Fallkniven A1 typifies what this Yankee would view as the ultimate Swedish survival knife. Hefting this thing I can just imagine gently padding along Sweden’s forest floors. You can immediately tell that this knife was meant to be used, and it was meant to be used hard. And then there is that Scandinavian design. It’s charming in it’s simplicity, yet the knife has real weight to it. The Fallkniven A1 is definitely a knife where style and substance go hand in hand.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The A1 has an overall length of 11″ (280mm), a 6.3″ (160mm) blade, and it weighs 12 ounces (305g). As I mentioned earlier, there is a real feeling of heft here. When I compare the A1 with my Cold Steel SRK there really is no comparison – the SRK feels like a toy. Fallkniven describes the knife as “semi-large” and I’d say that works well enough for me.

This is a medium size survival knife. It would work fine around a campsite or taken along on hikes or excursions. Of course it would be at home in a survival situation or bug out style scenario as well. My review protocol mostly involved screwing around with the A1 in my back yard.

The blade is a modified drop point design with a generous sweeping belly and swedge for improved tip strength and penetrating capability. The 6mm thick stock is partially flat ground and terminates in a convex ground edge. It’s really worth making a point to say that the cutting performance of this knife is extremely impressive. I have not had much experience with convex edges up until this point so I wasn’t sure how much I would really like it. The A1 came exceptionally sharp out of box working through a sheet of paper as if it didn’t exist.

This knife reminds me of an NFL linebacker. It’s heavy, but it can move when it needs to. It wasn’t long after the A1 arrived that I was in my back yard working through a large felled branch. I’d love to say I took this knife up into the mountains for an extended trip, but the truth is I’m currently trapped in a Florida suburb where retirees flock for the mild winters and early bird specials. So instead of temperate hardwoods I worked with native sea grape, palm fronds, and even treated lumber. The A1 took devastating chunks out of anything I put it too. The cutting performance is frankly unlike anything I have previously evaluated and truly needs to be experienced to be fully appreciated.

The knife doesn’t quite have the forward heavy weight of a true chopper like the Ka-Bar Kukri Machete, but the knife could definitely get some chopping done and batoned like an absolute champ. The wedge like geometry of this blade pounds through wood with ease. If batoning matters at all to you I think you will be extremely pleased with the A1’s performance.

At this point I want to talk about the steel. Fallkniven uses a laminated steel for many of their fixed blade outdoor knives. Their laminate features a 420J outer cladding with a VG10 core. The VG10 is hardened to 59 HRc and I had my concerns as the steel sometimes has the reputation for being brittle, especially when compared with a high carbon like 1095 with a much softer heat treat. The geometry of the knife makes all the difference and VG10 held up phenomenally under use. I had no issues with chipping whatsoever, although I made a concerted effort to not chop or baton into sand or rock. The knife stayed extremely sharp throughout my testing. When the edge finally dulled on some heavy cardboard I found that gently stropping worked well for me. The edge is easily restored to factory sharpness, which was great to see.

A benefit of selecting a stainless steel is that the knife will hold up in wet and snowy conditions. It’s an interesting departure from many of the outdoor knives I have previously tested, but I was extremely impressed by every aspect of this knife’s performance. I found my arm tiring well before the edge did and feel that the performance of this knife is a testament to the extremely smart design. To get a blade this stout that cuts this well is really pretty amazing.

Handle and Ergonomics

The handle on the A1 is constructed of kraton, a semi-rubbery high density polymer. The A1 is a full tang knife and the thick laminated stock pokes out through the handle. Overall, handle design and construction is simple, with a single forward guard and a lanyard tube inset near the pommel.

In practice I found the handle of the A1 to be extremely comfortable. I had no issues with slipping or hot spots after extended use. Kraton has a nice tackiness to it (very important for chopping) and the grip has been accentuated by some fine diamond-pattern texturing. The handle is thick and provides plenty of support, while the rubbery Kraton absorbs some of the shock from hard pounding.

Sheath

This particular model of the A1, is technically the A1z. The “z” is used to designate the Zytel (polymer) sheath that the knife shipped with. Fallkniven also offers the A1 with leather (A1L) and lefty sheath configurations. The sheath is simple and lightweight. Next to the knife itself it feels a little flimsy, but those who are weight conscious will probably appreciate it. I went for the polymer sheath because I feel it has several advantages: they are easier to clean, and won’t react adversely to water or freezing temperatures. I like that the sheath holds the knife in securely, has a drain hole, and allows, for easy one hand insertion and removal. It has a simple belt loop and hangs easily and freely. It’s simple, but it gets the job done.

That said, it would have been nice to see a few more frills with this sheath. The belt loop requires you to remove your belt to put the sheath on or take it off your belt – there is no quick release with velcro and/or snap closures. There are no options for horizontal carry and no integration with a tek lock. To be completely honest I am fine with the way the sheath is, but a couple more options would have been nice. As it stands the sheath earns passing marks.

Fallkniven A1 Review – Final Thoughts

The A1 is a knife that needs to be experienced to be fully appreciated. The sleek and simple look belies a true performer. It’s all in the convex grind and meaty slab of steel and the knife just cuts. You can tell the folks at Fallkniven know their way around a knife as the A1 feels so “right” in the hand. Sometimes I find knives can get in the way of themselves, or really need good technique to be effective. The A1 is not one of those knives (although technique is always important). If you haven’t experienced a knife of this size with a convex grind, you are in for a serious treat.

As for the potential negatives, well, if the A1 had a weak link in my book it would be the sheath. The sheath totally works and calling it a “weak link” isn’t entirely fair, but it is relatively flimsy and spartan on options. It is nice and lightweight however. It has also held up well in my use, and easily gets the knife from A to B. It’s a high performance sheath, but I wouldn’t turn down a more heavily built option with additional bells and whistles. Maybe that is where my feature-obsessed American nature clashes with the elegance and restraint of Scandinavian design.

All things considered I am thoroughly impressed with the Fallkniven A1 and highly recommend it. It’s a beautiful knife and it cuts exceedingly well – what more could this Yankee ask for?

Fallkniven A1 Fine Edge Fixed Blade Knife, Black

Blade material: lam. Vg10
Blade length: 160 mm
Total length: 280 mm
Zytel sheath included

I recommend purchasing the Fallkniven A1 at Amazon or BladeHQ. Purchasing anything through any of the links on this site helps support BladeReviews, and keeps this review train running. As always, any and all support is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

Ka-Bar Kukri Machete Review

by Dan Jackson 17 Comments

Last Updated: July 27, 2019
The Kukri is an ethnic design that has truly stood the test of time. Originally the kukri was meant to be a fighting knife. Members of the Nepalese military carried these blades, most notably their elite Gurkha regiments. These days you don’t need to be an elite warrior to wield one as most knife stores and your favorite online blade retailers will carry these. Today I am looking at Ka-Bar’s take on this traditional knife, their Kukri Machete.

Buy the Ka-Bar Kukri at BladeHQ

Buy on Amazon

Purpose

We purchased this knife for clearing land and chopping. We have a little bit of land and this is the perfect knife to clear ground with, chop wood, trim trees, etc. I personally wouldn’t label this as a dedicated “survival knife” but if it works for you then by all means feel free to use it as such. I wouldn’t really call it a “machete” either – this is a heavily built knife, and designed for serious chopping. I wouldn’t hesitate to use it in any situation a hatchet might be used. Your average machete would break in two if you tried to do half the stuff this knife is capable of (like chopping through 8″ diameter trees).

Also, the Ka-Bar Kuktri could could also be a good piece for your car/truck, bug out bag, etc. This is a sturdy tool, and one I wouldn’t mind having in my arsenal if the S happened to ever HTF. I also like how the knife is at a price where you can afford one “just in case” and not feel like you broke the bank.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The Kukri Machete has a blade length of 11.5″ a total length of 17″ and a weight of around 20 ounces (~1.2 lbs). Like I said, this isn’t really a machete. It’s a stoutly built tool and will do a lot more than hack through light brush. The kukri blade shape puts a lot of weight towards the front of the blade and makes for an excellent chopper. I’ve had no issue taking out 1-2″ diameter branches with a single swipe, and if you can place your blows effectively this knife will devastate larger limbs (or fell small trees) in no time. There is a partial flat grind that begins about an inch up the blade, and a smaller unsharpened swedge running along half of the top of the knife – presumably that reduces the weight a little and reinforces the tip.

Ka-Bar went with 1085 tool steel with the Kukri, and I think it’s an excellent choice. 1085 is very similar to 1095, the steel ESEE uses on their (expensive) hard use survival knives. 1085 is a very tough high carbon steel that takes a good edge and holds onto it well under outdoor use. Speaking of edges, I was actually pretty impressed with the factory edge on this thing. Most machetes come real dull, and rely on leverage to power through material. I could push cut paper and shaved a nice bald spot on my leg with the Ka-Bar. The kukri shape will be harder to sharpen than say a classic drop point, but it is not impossible – especially with a sharpening rod or small stone.

I did manage to chip the blade when I missed my target and banged into some rocks. What can I say, a rock will typically trump the edge of a knife – no surprises there. I’m just happy the Ka-Bar didn’t crack in half, and removing the chips with a file was easy enough. 1085 will rust so you need to keep this knife clean, dry, and preferably coated with a little oil. Ka-Bar went ahead and gave this knife a nice and durable flat black powder coating. In practice this coating has held up really well, and I haven’t had any issues with rust (despite using and storing this knife a stone’s throw from the Atlantic).

Handle and Ergonomics

The Ka-Bar Kukri comes with a large and comfortable handle. This is a full tang knife, something I would expect to see in a heavy chopper, and the handle is made of black kraton. Kraton is a hard rubber material, and performs well with wet or dry hands. Although I had no issues with slipping you would still be well advised to take advantage of the large lanyard hole as you definitely do not want this knife getting away from you.

The large handle is designed with chopping in mind. I like how thick the handle is and the lightly textured kraton provides plenty of grip. I also like how the pommel is slightly curved to provide a “catch” for your pinky finger. This does a good job keeping the kukri from slipping away; even after extended chopping sessions with wet/sweaty hands. I did have a blister raise up on my palm after a day of use, but a pair of gloves probably would have avoided that. If one blister is all that happened to my hand after 6+ hours of heavy chopping I’d say this handle is pretty darn comfortable.

Sheath

The sheath is made from a combination of black leather and cordura. It is a simple sheath with 2 snaps to hold in the blade. I find that sheaths for kukris are generally a little awkward in comparison to more traditional blade shapes (to account for the somewhat odd shape to the blade). Ka-Bar’s sheath is no exception, but it totally works.

I will say that the sheath is sturdy and it holds the knife well. As for attachment methods, your only option is a belt loop on a D ring that has been riveted together. There is another smaller D ring at the bottom of the sheath that you can lash that to your leg. In the world of high-speed kydex sheathes this option is nothing to write home about, but in practice I found the sheath to be entirely adequate – especially for the money. Ultimately I carry the knife on my belt, and it works really well for getting from point A to point B. I find that I can get the blade out by unsnapping the top snap, and the knife is easy enough to remove and insert. No complaints with the sheath.

Update and some field testing footage

Hard to believe this review was originally penned over a year ago! Since then the machete has seen a good amount to use and I have updated the review to reflect some of my experiences. We managed to chip out the blade badly on some rocks. This video shows me repairing that and chopping up some wood with the blade. This thing is a BEAST of a chopper.

Ka-Bar Kukri Machete Review – Final Thoughts

If you are looking for a durable chopper Ka-Bar has you covered with their Kukri Machete. I don’t like calling this one a machete because it performs more like a small axe, but who really cares about the semantics. This knife will clear brush without hesitation and plows through medium sized branches with ease. If you need something for heavy yard work, or want to add a capable chopper to the arsenal, I can safely recommend this one. The knife itself is a good design and is well made from high quality material. For the money the sheath does a great job.

What else is there to say? If you want a versatile knife with serious chopping power for around $50 I totally recommend the Ka-Bar Kukri.

KA-BAR 2-1249-9 Kukri,Black

Made in: Taiwan
Category name: machetes
Made in USA or imported
Black Kukri-style machete with carbon-steel blade
Ideal for chopping weeds, clearing campsite, and more

I recommend purchasing the Ka-Bar Kukri Machete at Amazon or BladeHQ. Please consider that purchasing anything through any of the links on this website helps support BladeReviews.com, and keeps the site going. As always, any and all support is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.